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  #21  
Old 07-11-2010, 02:37 PM
lwood's Avatar
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

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Originally Posted by ubarch View Post
What if I tried to level the whole foundation with concrete? It might be cheaper and easier than renting a masonry saw and cutting the cinderblocks.

I would level the first coarse of cinder blocks with mortar and dry stack the rest. The hearth slab is the only thing that needs to be level A coat of stucco and it will all disappear.
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Last edited by lwood; 07-11-2010 at 02:48 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-11-2010, 07:47 PM
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

My brother always told me "You ain't buildin no Piano" . Construction is a world of out of square and not level. That is why finish work profesionals make good money.

If you have to have level, when you get to the top you could build your forms for the pad to correct this. It just depends on where you want to put your work. Build your forms at the top and use a string level to true it up.

But like was just mentioned. Cutting the base course and setting that level will also work.

All that said my slab is on a 1" drop over 30 feet, but runs from back to front. I had this done on purpose so it will drain when I wash it off. Only issue I have is water flows towards the end where everone has to walk on to the slab.... doh !!! I'll have to work on that drainage.

Always some issue to work through
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2010, 10:55 AM
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

"I don't know how to judge a slab for how trustworthy it is, though."

Can you dig down at the edge or corner to see how thick it is?. If it is only a couple of inches thick you may have a problem. If it is 4 inches or so you should be OK. The fact that it is 20 plus years old and has no cracks is a very good sign too.

Last edited by Neil2; 07-12-2010 at 10:57 AM.
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  #24  
Old 07-14-2010, 01:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Houston
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

I agree with MetalHead thats what I did. I drystacked the cinder blocks filled everyother void (which I believe was overkill) and when I installed the form for the heath, thats what I concentrated on to get level. That being said, being level for your oven, in my opinon is not nearly as important as getting the hearth FLAT. Flat makes a much easier installation for the floor and over all oven. The level can always be compensated for while building whatever sundry attachments you are going to add.

Gary
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  #25  
Old 07-16-2010, 12:52 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Virginia
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

Neil2:

I believe it's about 5" thick.
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  #26  
Old 07-18-2010, 12:35 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Virginia
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

Update:

DAMN. I dropped like $50 on a diamond masonry blade for a circular saw. I'd been using a composite 4.5" wheel on my angle grinder before, and the difference made it seem like I'd been trying to cut cinder blocks with sarcastic criticism and name-calling.

My first course is level now. Just need to mortar it in place and begin stacking.

Also noticed: The slab is likely tilted because it follows the line of the patio, which is also aggressively tilted. I live on the side of a hill where drainage is important.
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  #27  
Old 07-22-2010, 09:00 AM
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Default Re: Problems with foundation

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Originally Posted by Tscarborough View Post
Well 3" is a lot. Your choices are to level the slab by excavating it (probably not worth it), level it by topping it with a material made for that (expensive), or cutting the first layer of blocks to level it (normal practice, although usually only within an inch or 2). The maximum you want your initial bedding joint (any bed joint, for that matter) is 3/4".
please look at my oven base. i have used mortar about 1.5" thick to level.
i have not filled the cells yet, so could redo if required. thoughts ?
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