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#131
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Damp or moisture will climb and masonry structure so an impervious barrier need to be incorporated in to the masonry. The rule of thumb is taken that rain will hit a hard surface and bounce about 100mm high, so the DPC needs to be set more than 100mm from the hard surface to stop moisture penetration up into the structure. If the DPC is set too low it will be ineffective.
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#132
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| Ahh... I see, it involves drilling a continuous series of holes in the masonry and filling them with a silicone fluid, which permeates the masonry and forms a water barrier. It seems to be a UK/Oz technique. |
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#133
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Like this.
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#134
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| Thanks for the pictures - I guess Google was just showing me the repair/retrofit version. So, for the usual filled-core stand, you'd have to put down at least one course (~200mm) of block, fill and rebar the cores, put the membrane down (with the rebar punched through and possibly sealed), and add courses to reach your finish height. Have I got it right? |
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#135
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| Cement rich concrete should by itself be waterproof, you can also add a chemical waterproofing agent to the concrete which would probably be a better option. My first suggestion was more for brickwork.
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#136
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#137
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| Ceramic fibre blanket is made from fibres that are made of clay. |
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#138
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#139
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| Likely covered in previous posts, but haven't found it - question about the order of layers: on top of firebrick, which I was going to cover with high temp mortar, I was going to then cover with aluminum foil, then the FB blanket (3 inches), then a layer or two of vermiculite concrete, then a final coat of some waterproof stucco. So my question is whether putting the blanket first is appropriate or is it advisable to first put the vermiculite/concrete down? Or does it not matter? Thanks |
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#140
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| Put the blanket on first. You want your most efficient insulation closest to the hot zone of the oven. |
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