#31  
Old 11-25-2012, 05:36 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigans West Coast
Posts: 37
Default Re: Getting started

OK I have hit a frustration point. I have read everything I can find on using the IT to mark the bricks for the arch but I am just not getting the idea. Am I marking the point where the edge of the brick will sit in the dome chain and then drawing my lines back to the inner and outer edges to get the arrowhead looking cut or am I marking each of those then drawing the lines to the point at the back if the brick that intersects that particular arch brick. Really didn't think it would be this difficult to grasp.

I actually did put down a floor to protect the cooking floor but had not put it in at the time I took the pic.

Thanks for all the help
Gregg
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  #32  
Old 11-25-2012, 07:32 PM
UtahBeehiver's Avatar
Il Pizzaiolo
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 1,564
Default Re: Getting started

Gregg,

I would still duct tape over the edge of your temp form and the crack by the soldier to keep mortar and crap out of the space between your floor and soldier since the floor sits inside the soldier course. Here are some more pics and mark-ups to help you visualize the taper arch and using the IT to determine.
Attached Thumbnails
Getting started-41a-course-5-7.4.12.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Taper Arch Help.pdf (240.3 KB, 132 views)
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  #33  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:14 PM
Peasant
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigans West Coast
Posts: 37
Default Re: Getting started

Well the dome is finally finished!! Sorry no pics it was dark when I finished, short daylight this time of year. I put about a half inch of the home brew over the outside for a little more thermal mass. Now to tell the truth my dome is not the work of art that some of you have turned out as I had a couple of bricks slip a bit and didn't notice till I was cleaning up the inside.

Now on to a couple of questions. Since I am doing a thermal break between the oven and the landing, chimney I should be able to build these from regular brick correct. I have seen others that have done this it appears from their photos.

So I am planning on leaving a half inch gap from the entrance to the oven proper and the landing and then filling this gap with fire rope to fill it. The landing floor will be firebrick which I will back cut underneath and fill the void with an 11-1 vermicrete mixture.

Finally somewhere here I read about making a stuco base using portland cement, hydrated lime and sand but cannot seem to locate the thread for the proportions.

Want to thank everyone for their help getting the extended arch through my thick skull.

All the best.
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  #34  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:24 PM
mrchipster's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN USA
Posts: 1,261
Default Re: Getting started

Half inch thermal gap is overkill 1/8 inch is enough and better for your rope fill, less exposure to the high heat,

Others will need to comment on the chimney. I used 10 inch id 12 inch od double wall stainless class A flue.

Chip
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  #35  
Old 12-04-2012, 10:29 PM
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Les Les is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 2,858
Default Re: Getting started

You want to use fire brick, Clay liner, stainless for you chimney / vent. The gasses that are leaving the dome are pretty damn hot...
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  #36  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:06 AM
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 200
Default Re: Getting started

Quote:
Finally somewhere here I read about making a stuco base using portland cement, hydrated lime and sand but cannot seem to locate the thread for the proportions.
Forum extraordinaire david s recommends a 4:1:1 ratio sand:portland:lime by volume, ideally with some reinforcing fibers thrown in. Check the "Design Styles" board for references. The fibers are cheap--I picked up a bag for $6 from my local brick yard when I went to get a clay flue tile yesterday. Haven't figured out how many parts fibers to add, although the guy at the brick yard said the bag was good for a cubic yard of concrete.
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