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#71
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| Or just break the block end and hide the break back in the stand.....a little mortar and it will look fine!
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#72
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| I guess it was a non-issue. I used a combination 10" saw and angle grinder to trim off the 1/4 inch. My first brick/block cutting. I didn't realize how smooth and easy it would work. Looks fine now.
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#73
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| Things are going slow. Goofing off with the kids. The block stand seems complete. It was a pain to notch the blocks to accommodate the angle irons for the span over the openings, but finally got done and all level. I hope to fill the cores with concrete this weekend. How do you fill the cores of the blocks that are over the open spans (those supported by angle iron)? The blocks are hollow in the bottom, nothing to hold the concrete up.
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#74
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| I just used a scrap piece of 1x6 cut to length and held up to the underside with a couple of scrap 2 x 4 "legs". nothing fancy required. After it sets, knock out the 2x4s and the 1 x 6 dropps to the ground.........your done. RT |
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#75
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| I did the exact same thing (other than being a 2x6 - old decking) Les...
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#76
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| RT, Les - Thanks for the tip. Worked just fine. Simple enough Block stand is done. Every other core reinforced with rebar, cores filled with concrete.
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#77
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| Looks great, Mike!
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#78
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| OK, after a goofing off a little, I'm back at it. I hope to pour the hearth this weekend. I'm still debating the thermocouples. For those that ran some copper tubing in the floor to create a void in the concrete for future thermocouples, what size did you use?
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#79
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| Found some time this weekend to forge ahead. I was able to frame up and pour the hearth. I used the redimix bags of concrete this time, 30 bags (60 lbs) didn't justify calling in the truck. 3 guys mixed and poured it in 1.5 hours.
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#80
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| Yeah!!! Now the back breaking work is done and the real fun begins! Christo
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