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  #51  
Old 04-19-2013, 01:24 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Quote:
Originally Posted by brickie in oz View Post
Mark out you arch on paper, cardboard, whatever.
The top of the arch need to be within the golden ration/mean 1.62%.
Your markings out of the arch will dictate the height of the springing point.

Heres a sample of what you need to do to mark out your arch.
Al, I did some googling to try and better understand the ratio as applied to arch design. Have to say much of it went over my head (maybe because it's after 4 am my time). Assuming an 18" width and apex of 12", is there a simple method to determine the height of the side wall? I am going to call it a night and will try and work it out after some sleep.

Current report is one suspect dead other at large.
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  #52  
Old 04-19-2013, 02:04 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Start with working out the finished inside oven height (top of dome inside), then 62% of that height is the top underside height of your arch.
Work backwards to your marked out arch, you then have the springing point height of the arch.

Brickwork is always worked backwards from the final finishing point.
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  #53  
Old 04-19-2013, 06:31 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,

The front counter (abt 8" deep) I do not use as much as the side counters. It basically holds the beer bottle . From the inner arch to outside of my decorative arch is 12". But like you say, you need to build what works for you. I think you are on the right track, go for tight inside dome joints and use mortar as your friend. One thing about mixing mortar for your dome, use only need to mix small batches. Good luck.
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  #54  
Old 04-19-2013, 07:23 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Bruce,

One thing about mixing mortar for your dome, use only need to mix small batches. Good luck.
By small, is that about a pint or maybe a quart?

Bruce
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  #55  
Old 04-19-2013, 09:49 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Start with a pint or less - you're looking for enough to set 5-6 bricks. You'll have to guess on the volume, as that will depend on the size of the gaps that you're filling, and how quickly it sets up on you.
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:08 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Thanks, that's helpful. Bruce
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  #57  
Old 04-19-2013, 02:17 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Worked on arch and entry layout. First pic is a quick cardboard setup. This was,interrupted when heavy started. The apex is at 11.25", very close to 62% of 18" (11.16"). I did a 15" setback which seems more manageable. This should leave about 3-5" from the outer entry to the front of the stand.

I picked up and unloaded the the 100 firebricks I had ordered. Good thing is there are 85 cents cheaper per brick. Bad news is they appear to be lighter duty compared to the $2 brick from the other source. Did not ask their restocking policy but assume there will be a significant charge.

My first thoughts are to buy enough of the $2 brick to cover the oven floor.

Will the lower duty brick work okay for the dome, perhaps with a cladding layer of mortar. Or, I could use the brick I have for the lower levels and use higher quality brick for the top of the dome. Other option would be to slightly lower the dome height.

Any thoughts? Bruce
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  #58  
Old 04-19-2013, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Gudday Bruce
Heavy duty means a lot more time and wood is required to heat up. Lite duty as you have probably discovered after moving them are a fair bit heavier than a house brick! Heaps of mass to store the heat in. My own oven is lite duty.
You will probably use roughly 40 on the hearth floor, 150 odd for hearth and dome depends on cutting. How many you will use on the outer entrance comes back to design. I seem to remember mine (42 in) consumed 165 odd bricks for dome and hearth then I used commons outside.
Before I forget if you want more mass on the hearth floor don't lay the bricks flat turn them on the side,then your floor will be thicker. Use a few more bricks but probably suit multiple bread bakes more.
Anyway back to brick cleaning I'm finally getting around to buttressing that arch,you have "shamed" me into it
No not really I'm I loving the chance to work outside .... It's a beautiful day
Regards dave
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  #59  
Old 04-19-2013, 09:35 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

My guess would be the 2 buck brick is medium duty and these bricks are light duty, qa bit lighter and 8". It's funny, when I explain the theory of WFO's to my friends, I feel like an expert - but when I look at the empty stand, not so much. Based on reading this site, it seems better the mid duty would be better for the floor. Not clear to me if adding extra mass with cladding would make dome performance equivalent. I suspect any of the approaches would be functional. Still, one may be at least somewhat better.

I made some Salmon Poppers on my green egg (ceramic grill) and posted as a new thread.

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f31/...ers-19244.html (Salmon Poppers)

By the way: 2nd suspect arrested in Boston
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  #60  
Old 04-20-2013, 08:11 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

There's a thread on another forum... it seems the thermal properties of a W-G light duty floor are well matched to the biscotto tiles in the Italian professional ovens. As for the dome, they also cut a lot easier - faster cuts, and much less wear on the blade. I think you're golden.
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