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  #291  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:44 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Oh, I can definitely see you've "coned out" in this picture. The last few courses look like you haven't changed the angle at all

36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly-36953d1372614918-36-build-tallahassee-aka-bruces
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  #292  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:50 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by deejayoh View Post
But usually you can get to the plug for a 36" oven in about 10-11 courses. It looks like from your last picture you are on your tenth course now, and still a couple of courses away from your plug.
Last course was #10 counting from health level. Curious, if I decide to go back a few rows; what is the best way to remove bricks without damaging the ones below?
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  #293  
Old 07-01-2013, 07:09 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Here's my dome at the 9th course - just so's you knows it happens to us all I knocked off one course and got it back on the right arc.
36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly-29537d1336758513-starting-new-36-build-wp_000003.jpg

If you want to knock off bricks, the way to do it is with a cold chisel and light (3lb) sledge - better yet a dead hammer. But I hesitate to suggest it. I ended up knocking off 3 or 4 bricks the layer under the one I wanted to remove, and others (texman) have had even worse experiences...

I know that laying those high bricks is extra effort for you - so I want to temper the advice. I'm super impressed with what you've done already.
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  #294  
Old 07-01-2013, 07:40 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by Bec1208 View Post
Last course was #10 counting from health level. Curious, if I decide to go back a few rows; what is the best way to remove bricks without damaging the ones below?
As mentioned you risk breaking the bond on other bricks by hammering on the ones you want to re-set.

I suggest that you get the tip of a flat head screw driver, old chisel or better yet, a trim bar under the offending brick, and just turn it sideways to pop the brick out. The first one will be the hardest, but once you have room, rotate the bar or screw driver toward the opening..they should come off without breaking the bond below. You ca use channel locks or pliers to give your turn a little more power.

I never did this on a wfo, but I have on a historic restoration projects were you have to be extremely careful not to damage the surrounding work. I realize that the mortar is softer on old buildings, but if the mortar on your build is relatively green (3 days or less) then you should have no trouble.
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Last edited by stonecutter; 07-01-2013 at 07:43 PM.
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  #295  
Old 07-01-2013, 09:02 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Stone cutter
Bruce has already said that he has an angle grinder and blade. Would it help if Bruce chased a line horizontally along the mortar layer of brick to try and prevent vertical cracking the next layer?
Regards dave
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  #296  
Old 07-01-2013, 09:44 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Yes it would.
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  #297  
Old 07-01-2013, 11:24 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by deejayoh View Post

I know that laying those high bricks is extra effort for you - so I want to temper the advice. I'm super impressed with what you've done already.
Thanks for the thoughts, the last course wore me out, so I am glad to have the break. I was pushing it because I knew I was going to be tied up with jury duty this week. The bad part was I recognized my error half way through and kept on going anyways. I'm getting used to the reality that the best approach is to take off the last two courses. So it goes.

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Here's my dome at the 9th course - just so's you knows it happens to us all I knocked off one course and got it back on the right arc.
Good to know I'm part of a club.

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Originally Posted by cobblerdave View Post
Stone cutter
Bruce has already said that he has an angle grinder and blade. Would it help if Bruce chased a line horizontally along the mortar layer of brick to try and prevent vertical cracking the next layer?
Regards dave
Thanks Dave, I was wondering if that would work.
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  #298  
Old 07-02-2013, 04:10 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

A word of caution about using a diamond wheel though. If you are chasing out the joint and don't keep the blade straight in your cut, it can grab and lunge out. Then there is the dust factor too...for these reasons I didn't suggest using the grinder...I did notice the post earlier Dave.

Bruce, to echo the others, your efforts are much appreciated. Please use caution if you use the grinder. I have seen nasty injuries happen to guys that use them every day.
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Last edited by stonecutter; 07-02-2013 at 04:13 AM.
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  #299  
Old 07-02-2013, 04:22 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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A word of caution about using a diamond wheel though. If you are chasing out the joint and don't keep the blade straight in your cut, it can grab and lunge out. Then there is the dust factor too...for these reasons I didn't suggest using the grinder...I did notice the post earlier Dave.

Bruce, to echo the others, your efforts are much appreciated. Please use caution if you use the grinder. I have seen nasty injuries happen to guys that use them every day.
Would it work (and be safer) to use a masonary cutting or grinding wheel instead of the diamond blade?
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  #300  
Old 07-02-2013, 04:29 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

It would, but the same risks are there...I just wanted you to have the facts before proceeding.
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