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  #281  
Old 06-30-2013, 08:22 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by cobblerdave View Post
Gudday
Another way to build a form is this ...

But doing it this way the keystone the pain... I would recon dropping the circle of ply at the keystone when the mortars at that first set stage. Then clean up. Go back and you can the be able to trace the top and bottom of the keystone onto a piece of card ( being able to get to both inside and out) which will enable you to cut the keystone to suit.
As always you are the builder and you "call the shots" I'm still half the planet away and hoping my input is helping
Regards dave
Dave, thanks again for your suggestions. Doubt I could have gotten this far without your advice and encouragement. Funny thing, I was telling my wife about the two approaches and she said we have an exercise ball. She went to the back of the house and retuned with the ball in hand. I decided to give it a try and it looks like it should work. Bruce
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36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly-image_9fe5e53c-4c33-4fb4-a309-536dcc76f573.jpg   36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly-image_7095f3b5-9b6b-4466-b2c1-70f52763d7de.jpg  
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  #282  
Old 06-30-2013, 08:37 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by Bec1208 View Post
Dave, thanks again for your suggestions. Doubt I could have gotten this far without your advice and encouragement. Funny thing, I was telling my wife about the two approaches and she said we have an exercise ball. She went to the back of the house and retuned with the ball in hand. I decided to give it a try and it looks like it should work. Bruce
Bruce,
I used the concentric rings on the ball to help me keep the dome bricks concentric. It should help the keystone be simpler, if it is close to round. I set the ball on the floor of the oven and just inflated a little more. Looks like the bricks below may be causing the radius and height to be out of the proper shape, although it may just be the angle of the picture.
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  #283  
Old 06-30-2013, 10:55 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by kbartman View Post
Bruce,
I used the concentric rings on the ball to help me keep the dome bricks concentric. It should help the keystone be simpler, if it is close to round. I set the ball on the floor of the oven and just inflated a little more. Looks like the bricks below may be causing the radius and height to be out of the proper shape, although it may just be the angle of the picture.
Thanks for the help. Hadn't thought to use the markings. I set the next course but don't think I did a very good job maintaining the tilt. Will need to be careful on the next course. I think I was spoiled by the iT.
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  #284  
Old 06-30-2013, 05:10 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Thanks for the help. Hadn't thought to use the markings. I set the next course but don't think I did a very good job maintaining the tilt. Will need to be careful on the next course. I think I was spoiled by the iT.
Okay it is worse the I thought. Current height of the dome is 19 inches. I don't want the peak to be any higher (would prefer lower). What is the best way to flatten out the dome going forward? My first thought is to slide the next course 1/2-3/4" past the last course's inner perimeter. Any help would be appreciated. Bruce
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  #285  
Old 06-30-2013, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by Bec1208 View Post
Okay it is worse the I thought. Current height of the dome is 19 inches. I don't want the peak to be any higher (would prefer lower). What is the best way to flatten out the dome going forward? My first thought is to slide the next course 1/2-3/4" past the last course's inner perimeter. Any help would be appreciated. Bruce
Gudday
Sound like too much air in that ball ! Well 19 ins isn't to bad its only an inch out which in the big picture is nothing. The ovens still going to work. Might suggest just cutting a disk of ply and put a small amount of sand so you finish fairly much flat. I would however make sure you have brick to brick contact just to be sure. If you are doubtfull of it hanging up there go and look Ancient Roman Oven Photos in the introduction section. There's some pretty flat roofs on some and they managed to hang in there for 2000yrs give or take.
Or take it back a couple of rows and start again ... Can't hurt ....you have really had no setbacks to date so the progress thus far has been all foward.
Regards dave
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  #286  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:09 AM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by cobblerdave View Post
Gudday
Take it back a couple of rows and start again ... Can't hurt ....you have really had no setbacks to date so the progress thus far has been all foward.
Regards dave
Dave, I am reluctant to take down the rows but will if it turns out to be the best solution. I gather from your post that cantilevering the next row is not recommended. Assuming I am okay with scrapping the last row if this doesn't work, how about using the angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the bricks not a wedge shape? I'm at the courthouse now and the trail is scheduled for,the full day Monday and Tuesday. So I have some time to consider options, including just flattening out the next two rows. Thanks for your help.
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  #287  
Old 07-01-2013, 01:22 PM
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Question Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

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Originally Posted by Bec1208 View Post
Dave, I am reluctant to take down the rows but will if it turns out to be the best solution. I gather from your post that cantilevering the next row is not recommended. Assuming I am okay with scrapping the last row if this doesn't work, how about using the angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the bricks not a wedge shape? I'm at the courthouse now and the trail is scheduled for,the full day Monday and Tuesday. So I have some time to consider options, including just flattening out the next two rows. Thanks for your help.
Gudday Bruce
Can't say which way is the best at this point . Is not really a case of right or wrong with emotions playing a part. So perhaps a few days with the court case will give you some give you a bit of a breather.
Regards dave
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  #288  
Old 07-01-2013, 01:31 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

I wouldn't cantilever. Just increase the tilt for that row - cut a 5 degree wedge off the bottom of the brick. That will flatten things out.
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  #289  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:09 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

They are going to try and finish an expert witness from Jacksonville so we were kept until about 6pm. Dave and deejayoh, thanks for your help.

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I wouldn't cantilever. Just increase the tilt for that row - cut a 5 degree wedge off the bottom of the brick. That will flatten things out.
It seems like I would be better off cutting a wedge from the top of the last row (thereby dropping the height of the dome) and increase the tilt; or am I missing something? Bruce
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  #290  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:29 PM
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Default Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

I think we are saying the same thing. The wedge could be from the top or the bottom, but the goal is to steepen the angle for the top face of the brick. That will make your dome meet sooner.

But usually you can get to the plug for a 36" oven in about 10-11 courses. It looks like from your last picture you are on your tenth course now, and still a couple of courses away from your plug.

Each course should steepen your angle about 8.5 degrees - and my trusty calculator says you should be at ~78 degrees with 7.5 inches between the inner brick edges. I would guess that diameter is close to a foot based on the picture. Given that, I'd at least knock those two bricks in your last course off and cut a wedge off those - and plan on doing the same for the last few courses. The alternative is going back as CD suggests to increase the angle on the previous course. But I think you can flatten it out as is. Know that it will just be trickier to mortar the bricks at that angle - and I don't think the ball shape is going to be great for getting the top as flat as you might want it.

OR you could just have a higher dome It will still work.
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Last edited by deejayoh; 07-01-2013 at 05:33 PM.
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