#41  
Old 02-05-2011, 12:29 PM
Peasant
 
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Default Re: Tanzania/Canada

Just curious, do the floor bricks HAVE to be pasted down with the mixture as indicated in the plans? I have the floor perfectly level with all the wobbles gone now without the clay and sand mixture. Also the 8" for the vent landing seems likes a very short distance to fit the chimmney into.





Really dirty and tired SteveS.
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  #42  
Old 02-05-2011, 02:33 PM
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Default Re: Tanzania/Canada

Dear SteveS
Now am I right your Hearth bricks are layed on a layer of crushed plumius stone? right? If so you dont need the fireclay mix as well its only to level the hearth bricks on a Cast surface IE Pearlite cement.
Now the depth of the entrance to the oven to the dome I used 1 and 1/2 stardard bricks... forget that... none standard bricks. Measured my oven entrance ( hope you appreciate this as its pouring rain) 350 mm or 14 ins. I recon any deeper and it makes it harder to use the oven as you have to pass everthing down a big long tunnel.

By the way IT LOOKS GREAT!!!! you must be pleased with the progress

Regards
Cobbler dave
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  #43  
Old 02-05-2011, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: Tanzania/Canada

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ust curious, do the floor bricks HAVE to be pasted down with the mixture as indicated in the plans? I have the floor perfectly level with all the wobbles gone now without the clay and sand mixture.
Nope, if it's flat, you're done. I used insulation boards, and my floor just sits on them.
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  #44  
Old 02-05-2011, 10:04 PM
Peasant
 
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Thanks Dave and dmun,

Yes, I do appreciate that Dave. It felt like I was on Mars here yesterday so if you could send a little aqua-relief this way, that would be great! Not too much though, since the rainy season here is just around the corner!

For my insulating layer I decided to go with a layer of the cheap, cheap, solid blocks (4"x9"x18") laid flat and lightly cement to the hearth. They are made of 11 parts pumice, 3 parts sand and 1 part cement. They are so light that I can pick up one of these monsters with one hand. They should have plenty of air pockets in them for good insulation.

I was thinking of filling in those holes in my floor bricks with dry fine sand (see earlier photo of brick). I thought that that would retain the floor heat better than 3 long air spaces per brick. Also my chimney will be rectangular and have to be brick. I will fabricate the base of the rectangle out of angle iron. What would the optimum flue dimension be for a 40" oven?

The dome bricks that I am using are 11 inches long. I am going to cut them in half for my first upright coarse. Thinking I should cut them on a bit of an angle so my second flat coarse will start on more of a correct angle toward the top of the dome.

Also is there a way to duplicate my thread over to oven construction. Probably should have started it there in the first place? My thinking is I might get a few more views leading to more usefull tips or ideas from forum followers.

Cheers, SteveS.
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  #45  
Old 02-05-2011, 11:12 PM
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dear SteveS
as a good friend of mine said I a bit "masonary impaired" so a square opening is what I built supported by angle iron as well
attached are a couple of photos which might help.... a picture is worth a thousand words
construction
Tanzania/Canada-dome-construction.jpg
and completed
Tanzania/Canada-competed-ove.jpg

As you can see the chimney size is dictated by the oven opening size (check the instructions for yours). Make sure you leave a revel, a lip around the opening, so an oven door can be fitted to seal off the oven.
From memory the chimney ended up about 4 bricks wide 2 deep and is 5 bricks higher than the top of the oven door. The slot that carries the smoke is as wide as the oven door one brick thick. It draws well and handles the volume of smoke easily. I kept its height low so it would not be to heavy, any higher and I would have continued with a metal flue.
hope this helps
Regards cobbler dave

Last edited by cobblerdave; 02-05-2011 at 11:15 PM.
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  #46  
Old 02-06-2011, 12:09 AM
Peasant
 
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Thanks Dave!
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  #47  
Old 02-06-2011, 03:12 AM
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Dear SteveS
Now your starting on the dome proper a couple of things. First course consider standing the bricks on there end to start... why it gives you more usable room as the first 11 INCH( thats you brick lenght?) is vertical wall not an angled one you can get dishes etc closer.
Do a mock up on a flat piece of ply (or whatever) of the shape of the oven dome. Draw some curves with the correct height of the oven sit some bricks in place this will give you the angle of the spaces between the bricks. cut some wedges on these will be your guide as you go up. Check the photo i sent and you see them.
. The brick face in the oven are not mortered, each course of brick sit on its bottom edge with the one underneath only the backs are seperated by the cement the angle being set by the wedges. In this way the oven is resting on each layer and is self supporting.
This is all in the instruction... best off print a copy and much easier to break them into sections and refer back as you need.
Regards cobbler dave
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  #48  
Old 02-06-2011, 03:40 PM
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First course consider standing the bricks on there end to start... why it gives you more usable room as the first 11 INCH( thats you brick lenght?) is vertical wall not an angled one you can get dishes etc closer.
Think carefully before doing this. It's been suggested that full brick height soldier courses cause too much side thrust without buttressing. It may be a coincidence, but our one recorded oven collapse (Oh, the Humanity!!) had a full brick soldier course (as well as questionable mortar)
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  #49  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:23 PM
Peasant
 
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Hi dmun,

As I had posted earlier....

"The dome bricks that I am using are 11 inches long. I am going to cut them in half for my first upright coarse. Thinking I should cut them on a bit of an angle so my second flat coarse will start on more of a correct angle toward the top of the dome."

I am still going with this plan which will put my first coarse at approx. 5 1/2 inches high. Now I can make an angle cut when I cut these 11" bricks in half so the second flat laid coarse lays at the correct angle. This will result in very little mortar used. From what I've read this is a good thing....right?

Cheers, SteveS.
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  #50  
Old 02-07-2011, 03:05 AM
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Dear SteveS
Yes check that thread out but I dont think you"ll find the same conditions he used a filler type morter and the part built thing collapsed in freezing conditions not what you could expect in africa....
Dumn well he's not a moderater for nothing see what he thinks

Regards Cobblerdave

PS the bloke that posted his failed oven GUTSIE or what
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