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  #211  
Old 04-06-2013, 12:46 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Location: Australia
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Hi again Allan

Thankyou then I will leave it as is with one brick either side of centre point of arch.

Thanks again
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  #212  
Old 04-06-2013, 06:07 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Location: Australia
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Default Re: new build in werribee

hi all

I got some of the first course layed today before running out of light.

I have read on this site before about how calsil insulating board sucks the water out of the mix [bricks were soaked over night]. Well I found that out today it is almost instant the stuff is a bloody sponge. Decided to flood the board before laying brick. Its the outer edge only so should dry. Through a small piece in the water and let it set for 30 minutes, will see how long it takes to dry.
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  #213  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:31 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Are you setting the floor on wet sand/fireclay over your calsil?
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  #214  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:40 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Gudday
Smear the insulation with table margerine it will work long enough to keep the fireclay/water workable
Regards dave
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  #215  
Old 04-06-2013, 03:09 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Two observations.
Your front arch profile is not square across the top from front to back leaf it will reflect in the laid bricks, unless this is of course how you want it.

Why are you soaking the bricks?
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  #216  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:11 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

I found this in the forno bravo plans.

"Before you mortar the bricks in place soak them in a bucket of water.Fire bricks are more porous then clay and will dry out the applied motar quickly if they are not moist.Cement cures through a chemical process that creates heat.If the surrounding moisture content is to low the mortar will cure too quickly and will not have the proper mechanical properties such as strength. Remember, you want cement to cure, not dry out, so starting with wet bricks and keeping completed masonry damp is a good thing."
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  #217  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:39 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

There is also a reference to a soldier course in the plans which the experienced ppl on this forum have concluded is a bad thing for an oven.
The plans are a starting point.

Adjust the mortar to suit the conditions.
I never once in 30 years of bricklaying had to soak a brick.
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  #218  
Old 04-06-2013, 04:47 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

The porosity of firebricks can vary considerably. It is a function of the degree of vitrification. The more vitrified the bricks are the less porous they will be. Vitrification is controlled by silica content, fluxes present and temperature the bricks are fired to. Out of interest I tested the porosity of my firebricks and was surprised to find that they were the same porosity as the solid reds that I also have. House bricks are generally more vitrified and therefore more waterproof so they don't allow too much moisture into the house from the weather.

Regarding the slow curing of the mortar, I would agree that this is a good thing to aim for, as anything made from portland cement will benefit from increased strength if kept moist, but commercial builders never bother because it is not particularly practical to try to keep masonry, or render for that matter, damp. The bricks should not be so soaked that they are wet or the mortar will not adhere well.

This explains it in more detail
http://www.lmcc.com/concrete_news/03...d_strength.asp

Last edited by david s; 04-06-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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  #219  
Old 04-06-2013, 05:26 PM
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Hi David,

Are you a brickie, too?
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  #220  
Old 04-06-2013, 06:15 PM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Default Re: new build in werribee

Quote:
Originally Posted by deejayoh View Post
Are you setting the floor on wet sand/fireclay over your calsil?
Hi Dennis the floor is layed on 6 mm sand/fireclay decided it didn't need to be wet [so a dry mix] and was easier to lay the tiles due to the tiles being used and the horror stories I had read on calsil absorption rate and since discovered.

I am mortaring the outside course in to bring the height to the same level as the Hearth, hence the comments about the calsil and it being a sponge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobblerdave View Post
Gudday
Smear the insulation with table margarine it will work long enough to keep the fireclay/water workable
Regards dave
Arrrh it was you Dave, that mentioned that in previous posts, I just couldn't find it, thx. Will try it today 'any brand in particular' just like greasing a cake tin before putting the mix in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brickie in oz View Post
Two observations.

Your front arch profile is not square across the top from front to back leaf it will reflect in the laid bricks, unless this is of course how you want it.

Why are you soaking the bricks?
Thx Allan I have noticed that and will adjust it today. In the interim I have been using cardboard to level it whilst I check everything.

As for the soaking of bricks.... if they are not soaked the calsil and firebrick was simply sucking ALL moisture from the mix, instantly, making it completely unworkable. I mean completely unworkable. The calsil [the fire bricks had been soaked] acted like a bloody sponge. That's why I threw a scrap piece into water it was completely saturated in less than, 5-10 seconds.

Also I am NOT a bricklayer with 30 years experience and I need a little more time to get it all aligned. Especially when moisture is sponged out in less than 3 seconds no matter how wet the mix was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by david s View Post
David [and Wayne] as usual all information ready at hand, thankyou I have actually read that link in my research, and it made for interesting reading.



Thanks guys all comments they are really appreciated.
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