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  #11  
Old 07-27-2012, 11:44 AM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

"I think all the gravelly parts seem to be like smooth pebble"

That is what you want to use. The grinding cuts into the top of the pebbles giving a nice "granite" type look. The 9 inch pad set will probably be more expensive but will work faster than a 4 inch grinder. You would be giving a typical four inch angle grinder a good workout. A five inch angle grinder is usually built more robustly and would be better. With a five inch grinder I would still use the 4 inch pad set. A set of pads will run you about $100 but will last along time if used wet.

"Would it be too hard on the disks to test it out on already "cured" concrete."

They will be ok if the surface is kept wet. You want to do the polishing on well cured concrete. I just like to do the initial cutting away of the surface on green concrete because it is easier.

"Also the "concrete filler""

Also called "concrete patching compound". Mix with water to a fine slurry and "force" it into the pinholes and imperfections with a putty knife after the initial grinding off of the surface. The grinding will pick out small bits of aggregate and leave a hole. The pinholes are formed when the grinding cuts down into small air bubbles in the concrete.

Last edited by Neil2; 07-27-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-09-2012, 07:00 AM
Peasant
 
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Neil,

Could you detail how you finished your dome? We're ready to insulate (we have blanket) and need to get this done so we can stop throwing a tarp over the oven every time there's a prediction of rain!

We were planning on just stucco over the blanket but I'd like to know what you did as your dome looks nice.
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:38 AM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

I used 4 inches of vermacrete as the insulation layer. This left a nice "pebbly" surface for the stucco. I used an acrylic paint on stucco and applied three layers.

If you are using a blanket you may want a different approach. Some of the builders on this site used some kind of mesh to hold the blanket in place and provide the sub base for a portland based stucco (or "render" as the Aussies say). Perhaps one of these builders can chime in and answer your question better than I.

Last edited by Neil2; 08-09-2012 at 11:09 AM.
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2012, 02:06 PM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Quote:
I used 4 inches of vermacrete as the insulation layer. This left a nice "pebbly" surface for the stucco. I used an acrylic paint on stucco and applied three layers.

If you are using a blanket you may want a different approach. Some of the builders on this site used some kind of mesh to hold the blanket in place and provide the sub base for a portland based stucco (or "render" as the Aussies say). Perhaps one of these builders can chime in and answer your question better than I.

I used a combination of ceramic blanket topped with vermicrete. I had bought metal lath (that is probably the mesh Neil refers to) for the stucco but wasn't happy with any way I could get to attach it without feeling it was a bit unstable so I ripped it out and applied more vermicrete to get it as rounded as possible (just "eyeballing") and like Neil I think the vermicrete gave a good surface to apply the stucco finish.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2012, 08:18 AM
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Question Re: angled flight deck

Neil
Great discussion on the concrete counters. I have a few questions still. Is your premix you refer to just plain ole sack crete or a special premix for countertops?
What kind of spacing do you use for the 3/8" rebar? overlaped or just every so many inches?
Thanks
Tracy
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  #16  
Old 08-11-2012, 12:03 PM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

plain ole sack crete

But note that the aggregate size and color may vary from batch to batch. The manufactures likely get their aggregate for various sources. Therefore if you find a bag with the type of stone you like, try to buy several bags from the same batch.

As for the rebar, you don't need a lot since the top is not likely to span any distance or support a lot of weight. It is primarily there for crack control and you could probably use WWF (welded wire fabric) instead.

Since mine spans a couple of feet and is cantilevered, I used rebar.

I used 3/8 inch rebar at mid depth to maximize the concrete cover in the thin 1 1/2 inch thick countertop. (It is getting harder to find but if you can get any 1/4 inch rebar this would be even better.) Mine are placed on 8 inch centers running the length of the counter = 3 bars, or about 1% of the end area. I hook or bend the ends. There is not enough depth to effectively fit in any overlaps. I then tied some WWF to the rebar and hooked or bent all the ends of the WWF.

Last edited by Neil2; 08-11-2012 at 12:19 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-14-2012, 08:53 PM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Here is a brief video showing the operation of the "angle flight deck."

This is a new (to me) camera so my apologies for the quality.

Pizza Neil2 - YouTube
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2012, 05:56 AM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Great video Neil - a professional cameraman in the making - and the food looks fantastic. The oven has a modern functional architecture and the angled deck fits that perfectly.

I took your advice and made a test piece. I used some sand and portland I had left over. It's 12" by 10" by1.5". I poured it in a melamine form with sharp sand, normal portland in the bottom 3/4" and the top half is white sand, white portland. I "seeded" both sides with crushed blue and green glass (I crushed it in a plastic bag with a lump hammer). I wasn't too happy with the bottom half - but I am pleased and more importantly the "commander in chief" is pleased with the white sand effect. I also put some black stone chips in (no idea what kind of stone - just found some smooth black pebbles on a beach and crushed them also). I used some metal lath for reinforcing - not that the piece really needed any - but I will put some on the counter proper.

Because I seeded the glass on the floor before pouring, and then sprinkling it on the surface after the top part was poured - I have none on the edges. This is OK on the test piece but I have to figure how to do it on site.
Suggestions welcome on this point

I won't have the utility of yours as my counter will be a full firebrick below the floor - but maybe with decent oven glove I can mansage that transition without burning my fingers too badly.

This is after 800 grit of ultra cheap ($20.99 delivered) 4" grinding disks using my Lidl cheapo 5" angle grinder (which btw does have a variable speed setting - which I hadn't noticed before). The glass isn't spread very evenly - that is easier to do on the floor than on the wet surface - so I have to work out some technique to get that better.

So far I haven't used anything other than water and the sand/cement/aggregates but should I go with acrylic fortifier instead as some people recommend.
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Last edited by Amac; 08-17-2012 at 10:05 AM.
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2012, 10:58 AM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Looks good Amac -a professional countertop artist in the making. My first tries were pretty much a disaster.

There are two basic techniques for concrete counter tops; "face up" or "face down".

"Face up", which I used, is probably best for the exposed/cut aggregate finish I wanted.

For embedded glass, you may want to consider the "face down" technique with the slab turned over and finished on the one side only. This is the technique fu tung cheng uses (his videos are excellent).

For the edges, one of these might help:
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Last edited by Neil2; 08-17-2012 at 11:29 AM.
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  #20  
Old 03-22-2013, 12:53 AM
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Default Re: angled flight deck

Brilliant looking tops - really making me re-consider my counter top ideas in favour of concrete - and that's before considering acid stains

how do you use one of those edging tools on either a curve or an internal angle? Of do you just leave it and grind / sand away after the 'crete is dry?

When you're talking about grinding away can I use an existing sander with the same grades of cutting material?

Thanks

Miles
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