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#61
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| Ok...well, I'm going to read more about them...is this something you invented - is it something that a small brained person like myself can use and understand? Can I purchase it - because I know I could never make it myself! I hope my remarks are not taken wrong - I am so impressed with how detailed this can get - I start showing people what I'm doing and showing them this website and we can't get off because it's so addicting and interesting... The mathematics are big hurdles for me, that's all...so is every first step of the next step...if you know what I mean.... Cecelia |
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#62
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| Cecilia.....no I did not come up with this idea. Jcg31 started this thread. I suggest you read through this entire thread if you get the chance. I only contributed to this thread for the first time just a week ago. I just threw in an idea of a slight variation of this tool, which I found out later that it had already been tried and successfully used by another member. Last edited by fxpose; 09-09-2009 at 10:21 AM. |
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#63
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| Quote:
Regards Greg
__________________ Greg Geisen Chula Vista, CA Click to see my Thread: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Click to see Google web album: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#64
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| Thought I would share my variation of the indispensable tool with what I think is the next step in innovation. For the universal joint I have used a magnetic door stop from the local hardware store. The shaft is made from some dowel and it all screws together. The advantages for this design is
The base just screws to the plywood in the oven. (more pictures when I start) |
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#65
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| Brillant addition to a brilliant idea. Having built a WFO with it, I would keep the clamp on the end. It makes keeping all the angles easy. regards greg
__________________ Greg Geisen Chula Vista, CA Click to see my Thread: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Click to see Google web album: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#66
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| Since this seems to be the central thread for this issue, I thought I would repost my photos and description here. My brick-placement tool is adjustable so as to permit a dome of any curvature while maintaining alignment of the upper edge of one course with the lower edge of the next course up. To do this with arbitrary curvature requires adjustment of two independent parameters: the distance from the center of the floor to the point of intersection between the floor and the brick's radial axis, and the distance along the radial axis from the floor to the inner face of the brick. However, since I have no welding confidence (or tools or experience), I built my tool out of wood instead of relying on the common (and far more elegant and perhaps precise) FB technique of using metal. C'est la vie. I've only set one course so far, but the tool worked nicely. I don't anticipate any problems on the subsequent courses...assuming the upper and lower edges of the adjacent courses align as intended. Cheers!
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#67
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| Having a guide for building the dome was such a great idea that I wanted to figure out how to build one out of wood and commonly available parts from the hardware store. This was the result of my trip to Lowes and about 30 minutes of work. I grabbed a swiveling wheel ($1.50), cut out the wheel's axle with a hacksaw, cut a piece of strong scrap hardwood (cherry) to just fit inside the base. Then I drilled holes in the top and bottom wood piece to fit the threaded rod ($2.00). I then drilled a hole through the bottom and threaded a screw and nut through the base ($0.50). Because the wood fits snugly in the base it holds itself in the air quite easily. I then screwed the wheel base onto the 3/4" plywood sitting on the oven floor. The threaded rod works great as I can extend/shorten the length of the tool. I'm thinking this will be useful as the dome gets higher. If I had it to do over again I would probably go with a slightly thicker rod - probably 1/2" instead of the 3/8" I got. I'm not too concerned about it supporting a brick or two, but it seems like I can bend it with my hands a bit too easily. Can't wait to put this to work! |
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#68
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| @tfasz: How are you going to clamp the brick to the bracket? Do you have a long enough bar clamp? I'm guessing you would need a 12"-18" bar clamp for that...which certainly exists. I'm just saying... More power to wood-builders. I thought I was the only one scared off from welding. Cheers!
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#69
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| Do you really need to clamp the brick to the bracket? My bricks were set in place quickly enough by hand to not really need a bracket of any sort. I just used string and a digital level. It seems that tfasz's wooden indispensible tool will work just fine sans clamp. |
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#70
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| I've only set one course so far, so I'm not an expert. My experience was that the clamp helped prevent the brick from sinking if, say, the mortar under it was of either insufficient volume or density. In the former case, I could easily pack more mortar in after lowing the brick and discovering the cavity but it helped to have the brick held at proper position so I could use both hands to add additional mortar. In the latter case (probably a symptom of slightly too wet mortar), a few minutes with the clamp would let the mortar set up so the brick wouldn't sink when I finally released it. I found it helpful. I'm not saying anyone else is required to do it that way. Cheers!
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