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  #11  
Old 02-25-2012, 04:52 AM
david s's Avatar
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

The problem with Plaster of Paris is that it holds moisture really well. It will still hold together when wet but if there is a substantial amount it will turn to steam really suddenly and blow it apart. Wet plaster takes about a week to dry out.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2012, 07:35 AM
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Location: ottawa valley canada
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

I built mine just like yours, 1'' of ceramic fibre, 2 1/2 '' of vermicrete with aluminum sheet surround bolted through to a wood exterior .. 2 years on [100+ heats] , all is well . I have staining around the bolt heads as they are the thermal conduit ... they sure get hot! but nothing else.. it is a bit heavy but I put 2 large wooden handles on so you can get a balanced grip.
I did attach a heavy woodstove gasket around the perimeter to finish the seal ..gasket glue would not hold on the wood, so I ended up holding it in place with construction staples.
happy cooking!
tim
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2014, 10:43 AM
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Location: Carmel Valley, CA
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

I'm going to cast a vermiculite/high heat morter board today with hardware cloth inside to stiffen. 1" thick to be sandwiched between two identically-sized steel door plates (one with handles, of course). I don't plan to enclose the edges with metal unless the the board starts chipping and falling apart at the edges with use.
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:52 PM
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

The big problem when making your own panel is that to make it strong enough you have to use around 50% vermiculite or perlite to refractory mortar. Anything greater than 50% will be far too weak IMO. I use Stainless steel needle reinforcing to help strengthen the panel, but these also have the problem of conducting heat, so while they make it stronger they reduce the insulating capacity of the panel. I also fire the insulating panel to 1000 C to increase its strength. Reducing the vermiculite or perlite proportion in an effort to get acceptable strength starts to make the panel fairly heavy. If only 1" thick then it may not be thick enough to prevent the heat from soaking through the panel. By having steel plates on each side of the panel you will be heating it up more because the steel is so conductive. Use the smallest gauge bolts to join the steel plates together because the heat will conduct easily through them.
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Last edited by david s; 04-20-2014 at 03:59 PM.
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2014, 07:50 AM
Serf
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Carmel Valley, CA
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

Ha. My first attempt at a vermiculite board was a failure--- not enough morter in the mix and it's crumbly. I'll get to the metal shop today and get them going on the steel plate and handle pieces before I try again. I may be barking up the wrong tree with this but my thinking is that any insulation is better than a single steel plate and ceramic board is hard to get and way expensive.

Last edited by setman1; 04-21-2014 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:36 PM
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

G'day
My doors to date are carved ACC silasticed to a wood face. They are a damn site stronger than pearlite cement and still suffer from being knocked around. My current one has a large chunk off one corner that been silasticed back.
If you still want to caste a door I'd be making a baking dish type shape of metal with a lip. Casting the pearlite or better still stuffing with CF blanket alone. Silastic the lip to the wood front and a minimum of screws just for good measure. No bolts mind you they give you hot spots on the face of the door. Fibreglass rope silasticed over the lip should complete it.
Anyway when I ever get around to building a metal door this would my probable construction path till then the ACC one survives and works well enough.
Regards dave
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2014, 07:58 AM
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Default Re: Homemade Perlite Board.. and Door

Thanks. I decided to do a double metal door with a vermiculite-filled void. Easy to fabricate, bombproof, and relatively lightweight. With handles such that it can be leaned to provide airflow but block heat at the mouth of the entrance. Thanks for the suggestions.
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