Old 02-17-2010, 11:01 AM
Dino_Pizza's Avatar
Il Pizzaiolo
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,017
Default Re: Dry stack vs Mortar stack

Oooh, fun subject. During the '94 quake my entire 3 sides of yards perimeter block wall cracked at the base and fell over in whole chunks or crumbled. So, I (over) built and put rebar sticking out of my ovens base into the blocks and did a bond beam at the top.

If I didn't live in earthquake country, I'd still put steel in the 4 corners, maybe 1-2 more. You'll know exactly where your cmu's will be when you place your perimeter forms.

Another good reason to dry-stack is you only have to truly level your base slab. Then just stack the block. AND if you are a fraction off by the time you're at your top final row, you still have the oven base to pour that's your last chance for a really flat oven base. It was surprisingly easy for this novice, me.
"Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame

View My Picasa Web Album UPDATED oct

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

My Oven Costs Spreadsheet

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

My Oven Thread

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2010, 02:49 AM
david s's Avatar
Il Pizzaiolo
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Townsville, Nth Queensland,Australia
Posts: 5,077
Default Re: Dry stack vs Mortar stack

For those who are scared about laying blocks, you can use adhesive, like liquid nails, for masonary. Filling the block cavities creates the required strength.
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2010, 10:17 AM
Master Builder
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Washington State USA
Posts: 802
Default Re: Dry stack vs Mortar stack

I dry stacked my cement blocks and glued together with subfloor adhesive. Of course the is always the problem with the design of the blocks, they are designed to have a mortar line and so two of the width of 8x16 blocks is less than the length of one block. This makes for a gap when dry stacked. The advantage to me of using subfloor adhesive was that if I accidentially bumped the structure which pouring the infill it wouldn't move out of position.

As a bizarre aside: About 20 years ago I was offered a cement block maker from the fellow from whom I purchased my cement mixer. As it was free and looked cool I took it. In case one has never seen such a contraption it is a manually operated machine for making cement blocks one at a time. It has a mold for the block which one fills from the top and when filled and suitably compacted one pulls a lever and the plugs for the holes are pulled downward and out of the block. Then releasing a bail and the sides fold down. Pulling another lever and the block is rotated toward the operator to rest on its side. The block is then removed from the machine to set aside to cure. Another piece of wood (which forms one side of the block mold) is inserted and the whole process repeated. Very third world but I found it cool in a Rube Goldberg sort of way.

The mold is adjustable in many different ways and has inserts to make both stretcher and ender blocks or a combination, one end stretcher and one ender. One could also adjust the length of the blocks such that when dry stacked there would be no gap. I always had the idea that it would be great to make wedges for the ends so that one could produce a trapazoidal block. With such a block one could theoretically make a serpentine structure having two rooms and only one wall. One could even build a small diameter tower. And as one side of the block form was a board one could cast a curve in the outside of the block making for a smooth cylinder tower or base for a pizza oven. I have been told that at one time it was possible to purchase molded boards for the side which then gave the blocks the look of cut stone. A creative person could make walls with images or patterns cast in relief.

But alas, I have never found the time to experiment with the machine. However, I just checked the machine and it still works and with a few hours work it could easily be cleaned up to start producing blocks. New boards are needed. So an offer to anyone within reasonable driving distance of where I live in Western Washigton: if you would like to borrow this machine and make your own blocks send me a PM and we can talk. It produces what is commonly called Eastern Blocks, they have three holes. And yes, I have a formula/recipe for the mix and the machine has a divider so it can make two half blocks. It's about the size of a small cement mixer and is a two man carry.

Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
High Heat Mortar Primer james Getting Started 88 04-29-2015 08:36 PM
What is the best oven mortar mixture for the bricks in the dome? shingletown paul Newbie Forum 0 11-30-2009 02:17 PM
How thick a mortar gap with "horizontal" soldiers? kebwi Tools, Tips and Techniques 6 11-05-2009 08:02 AM
Maximum mortar joint on inner oven surface? kebwi Pompeii Oven Construction 17 10-27-2009 06:11 PM
Fire Mortar vs. Refax Refractory Mortar southpaw Pompeii Oven Construction 4 04-07-2007 05:02 AM

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2006/10 Forno Bravo, LLC