Basic nonrefractory brick mortar recipe?

[cannyfradock]

Kebwi

Sorry for any confusion on my part. Although principles may be the same, materials differ from country to country so I should'nt really post comments.

Have been following your build (36" in Seattle) from early on and have been truly impressed with every stage of your wood-oven build.From your early graphics to your photo diary and vidio's to the tiered effect you are doing now. A brilliant thread to follow.

Terry (C.F)

[Tscarborough]

Thinset has finer aggregate so that in can be set thin (1/16-1/8") as opposed to mortar which is 1/4-3/4" thick. It also usually contains acrylic or latex modifiers to make it stronger (6-12,000 PSI, as opposed to 300-3000 PSI for brick mortar). It costs about 12 bucks a bag at the big box stores.

[kebwi]

Thanks guys. I always appreciate the information. I'll take it all in stride.

Cheers!

[Tscarborough]

This appears to be the mortar standards for the UK: PD 6678:2005

I can not find a copy of it online or even a summary. Do you have access to a copy, Cannyfradock? This type of thing is my hobby as well as my profession, and I am always interested in learning more.

[cannyfradock]

Tscarborough

Since serving my apprenticeship in 1978 building regs and procedures have changed many, many times over the years. With the ever changing policies in building procedures and practices it is now up to the cement companies to deliver the correct mortar for the type of brick and location of the build, and it now arrives in ready mixed quantities with retarder to be used over a period of days.(large multi-house sites)

As regards mortar standards for the UK: 6678:2005. This has long since left the control of the builder of the property and now is in the hands of the white-collar brigade and cement manufacturer.

This is just a courtesy post to yourself in regard to your last comment and I hope that has answered your question.

Regards......Terry (C.F)

[Tscarborough]

Yes, I saw that when researching it. We have a similar product here, generally called "Spec-mix". It is a very good product, and in some areas utilizes plasticizers instead of lime. Regardless it still has to meet the ASTM C-270 standard, and I was interested in that, i.e. what physical properties and strength is the mix design based upon.

Ultimately it is always up to the mason in the field to determine the suitability of the mortar within jobsite conditions and parameters. Usually this will only involve how much water is added when using silo mortar, but for any job not using premixed mortar, there have to be guidelines to determine the composition of the mortar (as well as methods of testing and quality assurance).

[cannyfradock]

Off topic now from OP's original question. Answer to Tscarborough over on chit-chat forum.

Terry (C.F)

[Tscarborough]

Actually, it is very on topic to the original post:

"I need to make a very short brick wall (4" high, basically single "pavers" on their edges). It won't be exposed to heat. What would be the right mortar recipe? I assume it is basically the same as the home-brew but without the fire clay. Something along the lines of 3:1 sand/portland or 3:1:1 sand/portland/lime. I have no idea.

Any ideas?"

He is asking what is the proper composition of mortar for a specific application. To determine what the proper mortar is, there has to be a set of parameters used to select the properties required, and thus the composition of the mortar.

For a masonry wall in compression, the method used here in the US is called allowable compressive stress. However, for this specific application, this does not apply. What matters in this instance is bond and flexural strength, since his structure will be in tension, not compression. Thus thinset as opposed to mortar.

Sorry to be pedantic about it, but it is what it is.

[kebwi]

I'm following along with interest, just trying to keep up.

Thanks.