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#1
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| Gang, Starting to get supplies (already got the FB blanket, Heat Stop 50 and scored some "red" fire bricks for a few courses) ready. Just a few misc questions as I plan the build. 1) Is the angle iron necessary over the front span? I was just going to build a form with wood and rebar and pour a 4 inch hearth. I want to get as much "headroom" for my wood storage opening as I can? My spane is about 30" wide. 2) After cutting the bricks in half - does in matter which side faces the oven interior - cut side or the uncut side/reason? 3) When placing the bricks for the hearth I saw some posts about using a dry mixure, then setting the bricks, then wetting it down. Anyone done this yet/do you just pour a tone of water down or what? I guess I want to get a smooht surface but I've read I can just sand it down - this sanding wouldn't impact the longevity of the oven floor would it? Thanks so much in advance, Dick thebadger |
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#2
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| Quick answers: One, no I think it's fine not to use the angle iron/row of blocks at the top of your wood storage area, if you double up the rebar at the front of your slab. 2) Bricks are harder on the factory edge. They look better too. Keep the factory edge in. 3) The dry base for the firebrick leveling is for use with an uneven surface like you get with perlcrete insulation. If you are laying your floor on top of cal-sil board or equivilant, you can just plunk the bricks down. Keep your floor sanding to a minimum, again, the outside of the brick is the hardest part. Don't hesitate to touch an edge with your angle grinder if your peel is catching, but don't plan to grind your floor like it was terazzo. Just my opinion. Others may differ. |
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#3
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| I agree with David. I did sand my floor. Stupid move. It is getting pitted now.
__________________ GJBingham ----------------------------------- Everyone makes mistakes. The trick is to make mistakes when nobody is looking. - |
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#4
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| I built my stand without the lentel but I did use angle iron over the opening(in the inside block area) hoping that helped tie the two sides together. It works fine and I don't even notice the angle iron. I built my stand in the shape of a "H" with openings on both ends and a block in the center.
__________________ RCLake "It's time to go Vertical" To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#5
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| One more thing: the floor doesn't have to be completely super flat. If you use the herrinbone pattern the peel won't catch even on floor thats a bit uneven. |
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#6
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| I went with the herrinbone pattern, and I sanded all the uneven spots as well. works great nothing to get hung up on. no pitting that I see, but i only hit the corners. now for the taste of great pie. Leepin. |
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#7
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| I too sanded my floor. Now know it was a dumb thing to do... But - I applied a coating of sodium silicate ("liquid glass" used by ceramic folks) with wonderful, smooth floor. Best, |
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#8
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| hornofan, Can you expand on the sodium silicate application? What were you going for, what are the heat quailities of the material? A couple pics would be cool too. Jim
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#9
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| Hornofan, Agreed. I could google it, but if you know the facts and application techniques, that would be a help. Also, does it make food taste like poo or is it carcinogenic?
__________________ GJBingham ----------------------------------- Everyone makes mistakes. The trick is to make mistakes when nobody is looking. - |
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