My Old Kentucky Dome

[Les]

Ken, I started the sixth course and saw the problem you had - tying to the center of the arch. I am hoping that when I reach the area I will have enough brick to cut a notch, so I can sort of hang the brick. There is nothing there to hold the brick but vertical mortar, not a good thing. I am becoming aware that I don't see the trains until I am stalled on the tracks.

Good luck!

Les...

[Ken524]

Originally Posted by Les

I am hoping that when I reach the area I will have enough brick to cut a notch, so I can sort of hang the brick. There is nothing there to hold the brick but vertical mortar, not a good thing.

I wouldn't sweat it too much. The center of my transition area is vertically attached to the arch. Right now, the center key brick has mortar connections on three sides (arch, left and right sides). After the next course, it will have a connection to the dome on the full top (horizontal) face as well. All the other bricks in the transition area have mortar connections on at least 3 full sides (including a full horizontal mortar connection to the dome).

The photos really don't do the transition justice. Although there is only vertical attachment to the arch, there is a LOT of surface area with a mortar connection involved (including a lot of horizontal attachment to the dome). Once a few courses are added above, I think the stresses will spread out nicely.

I can also cut a few bricks long on the next course and have them overlap the top of the arch. Hmmm... Might not be a bad idea.

I'd love to know if our Masonry Pros here on the board share my confidence!

[asudavew]

Well, I kind of had the same problem.... Of course it's not as tight and pretty as you two, but I was able to use a few smaller pieces that are mortared on top of the arch then each course attaches to them.

And I had the same problem as you Ken, as the layers get more curved the joints open more at the bottom.

But I am happy so far.

Except for bending over this huge object it is painful for my back!

[Les]

This is a young man's sport. But, building this dome, for all the ups and downs you have to do on the hearth - beats the hell out of bending over to lay 800+ bricks to finish the island. That hurt!!!!! Ken, good luck on the crossing - I know it will work out, I'm just paranoid about trusting mortar.

Les...

[Two Dog's Brewing]

Fantastic job on the 7th course. I think the reason I like your project so well is because it’s CLEAN. Everything is clean. The dome the joints the building site everything. I still can’t figure out how you guys cut the brick. I assume the solder course is cut at an angle right? Then it looks like the bricks are cut at angles maybe 3 sides (horizontal and vertical) am I even close??

Great Job Ken

[Hendo]

Originally Posted by Ken524

While doing the 7th course, I noticed the upside-down "V" shape gap between bricks was becoming quite a bit more pronounced due to the steep angles.

I decided to make compound cuts on the edges of the 8th course bricks to minimize the gap. I'm still sticking with 1/2 bricks.

Ken,

When you say “compound cuts”, did you make more than one per side? What about simply lifting the outer brick face up the required amount, at the same time as rotating the brick for the radial taper? Or is this what you’re doing?

I’ll photograph my setup tomorrow to show you what I mean. Now I’m working on course 5 (gee, I remember when I was ahead of you and Les!), I’ve finally worked out a better way to support the bricks to achieve accurate cuts, particularly in order to avoid the triangular mortar joint scenario.

I too am sticking with half bricks for the moment, but the triangle under the brick is now getting to be a wee bit large, so I’ll probably throttle back to thirds in the next course or two. Will be interesting to see if I can avoid straight joints!

Cheers, Paul.

[Ken524]

Originally Posted by Hendo

When you say “compound cuts”, did you make more than one per side? What about simply lifting the outer brick face up the required amount, at the same time as rotating the brick for the radial taper? Or is this what you’re doing?

Hi Paul,

By compound, I was thinking of the cuts that can be done with a Compound Miter Saw (adjusted on 2 axis).

I'm probably doing exactly as you are doing. The brick sits on the saw table using the "C-Clamp Jig" and I have one edge lifted up with a sliver of scrap brick. Once everything is adjusted, I can knock out 25 bricks in 40 minutes or so. The only thing that slows me down is rinsing the table off and refilling the water pump bucket every 7 or 8 bricks

When do we get to see new pics of your project?

[Ken524]

Originally Posted by Two Dog's Brewing

I still can’t figure out how you guys cut the brick. I assume the solder course is cut at an angle right? Then it looks like the bricks are cut at angles maybe 3 sides (horizontal and vertical) am I even close??

Two Dog's,

You're close, if not right on. My soldiers have tapered sides to fit closely next to one another. I also cut an angle on the top of each one to help start the curve of the dome with the next course.

A few messages back on this thread you can see a pic of my 8th course bricks. I take a 1/2 brick and cut it into a wedge (by cutting the bottom face). Then I cut the left and right sides at angles so the bricks sit snuggly next to each other around the circle.

You can make these cuts as accurate, complex or insane as you like, or skip them all together (the Pompeii plans don't require them!). Either way, your oven will outlast you and the pizza will taste the same . It's your oven; build it however your patience dictates (but don't run out of "Give-A-Shit" pills like Les did!

Tapering and trimming bricks allows you to use less mortar (much less), but more bricks (many more!).

[Dannyboyblue]

What compound miter saw do you have that has a water pump? I've been looking around but it seems like all the compound miter saws are designed for dry cutting.

[Acoma]

Dannyboy, go to Ken's Picasa album. There, you will see the compoud miter they are referencing.