Michigan Money Pit Oven Build Brick Oven Photos Discuss Michigan Money Pit Oven Build in the Good Background Information forums; Hey Moneypit, Would you considering taking out those wooden studs and using metal studs. That makes me a litte nervous ...

[james]

Hey Moneypit,

Would you considering taking out those wooden studs and using metal studs. That makes me a litte nervous having combustible building materials so close the oven opening and vent.

What do folks think?
James

[EADavis]

I got this from Cochise County (AZ) Planning and Zoning:

Framing
Wood framing must be adequately separated from fireplace
and chimney masonry, Figures 47a and 47b. All
headers, beams, joists and studs must be kept at least two
inches from the outside face of chimney and fireplace
masonry. Prefabricated metal fireplace and chimney assemblies
are to be installed in accordance with the
manufacturer’s recommendations and must be approved
by the code authority.

So, to be safe, I would recommend replacing the front studs with metal. Everything else should be OK and to code.
Ed

[christo]

The stud work is beautiful, but I'm worried too. I had a big scary fire exit out the front as well as chimney, once. Probalby should call it a stupidly big scary fire..... But I'm very sure I heated up my entire opening to temps I never thought it would see. Metal studs aren't that expensive, but it can be hard to find where to buy them.

I ended up going to a sheetrock/gypsum board supply house - they had a whole yard full of different lengths and guage (thickness of metal) studs and u channells. It was not too pricey and they helped me pick out a medium grade material.

I cut the studs to length with a metal blade in my skillsaw as I did not have a metal chop saw worked much easier than cutting each one with tin ships. Word of advice cut two at one time and nest them together.

Christo

[nitro69]

It was a concern but with the dbl insulated wall vent, 1" air gap is all that is needed. So far I have had the oven inside temp 800+ and at the anchor plate, outside wall does not get above 90 deg all the way up the vent. Inside temp on the vent has been 400+. Aso to be extra safe, I am going to put some high temp insulation btw the 2X4 and vent at the arch.

[RTflorida]

In the photos it looks as if you actually have the framing resting on the bricks to your flue as well as up against the sides of your entry arch. I don't see where surrounding all of it with insulation will help.....whatever temp those bricks reach, the wood framing will as well.....direct contact is direct contact. I'm not saying things will burst into flames, but I would be concerned. My entry bricks reach 400-500 degrees every fire, with the inside of the flue easily topping that. Any extended firing will certainly heat up the wood to to its flashpoint in the mid 400s. Then there is the insulation......which will hold those temps in and around the wood. I take back what I previously said...at some point, it will burst into flames.
We are all just concerned...not trying to be overly critical.

RT

[nitro69]

Thanks for the input. None of the wood framing comes in contact with the oven. There is at least 2" to 3" air gap btw same. The pics I posted was during the building of the wall and the pcs of wood that are close to the vent was just temporary until everything was locked together. At this time those pcs wood have been cut out.

On the vent I took two 15 dig. bends to move it inwordto give more air gap.

[nitro69]

Pic's of the roof build. I went with a 4/12 pitch out of 2x4 with 1/2" plywood sheeting.

[james]

Absolutely beautiful.
James

[nitro69]

Roof Build: Copper Drip Edge with water & ice shield covering all of the roof. Waterproofed the chimney box to the water & ice. Went with black 10x12 slate.

[nitro69]

Cooking some pie's in the oven along with my first rye bread. It turned out so good. Such a different good tast.