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-   -   Marcel's Pompeii Oven photos Part 6 stove pipe (http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f21/marcels-pompeii-oven-photos-part-6-a-413.html)

Marcel 02-16-2006 08:16 PM

Marcel's Pompeii Oven photos Part 6 stove pipe
 
(M) In earlier threads I had considered using clay liners for my chimney but I decided to use simple single wall 6" stove pipe because of it's light weight and the option to use flex elbows to avoid cutting the ridge beam.

(M) If not all the ovens I've seen, certainly the vast majority have the flue centered in front of the "igloo". Because any symmetrical enclosure would have the ridge beam also in the center, I initially saw no option for me to extend the roof over the baker without cutting the ridge beam. Certainly if I used rigid clay liners I would run right into it.

(M) Stove pipe typically utilizes "flex elbows" to change the direction of the flue. They are virtually ubiquitous in most room heating cast iron stoves. By cementing a standard metal collar to the one and only (bottom) clay liner, I should be able to direct the smoke up the flex elbow and into the galvanized 6" steel pipe. The flex elbow(s) allow me to shift the position of the stove pipe enough that the pipe will clear the ridge beam.

(M) Here come a few images to help visualize what I have in mind:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...d/59778af5.jpg

(M) This 1st image shows an arrangement of 2 flex elbows; one on each end of the pipe. I subsequently decided to have both flex elbows arranged consecutively and on the bottom of the pipe. In the above image the pipe is not yet in place. It also shows the tarps on the roof rafters to keep out the rain.
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http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...tovepipeal.jpg

(M) This 2nd image shows a close up of the 2 flex elbows in the configuration I plan to use. The single red clay liner with a 6" metal collar to direct the smoke up the flue is also visible at the bottom.

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http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ovepipealo.jpg

(M) This 3rd image shows that the stove pipe is on one side of the ridge beam. No metal needed to be cut. I will need to shape the bottom of the custom made chimney cap to conform to the roof slope. It has not yet been fired so that should be easy with my angle grinder's thin masonry cutting wheel.

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http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...eridgebeam.jpg

(M) This 4th and final image is a 3/4 view that I took to show the planned arrangement of firebrick in front of the HardiPlank siding. I will also construct a decorative arch of 1/2 bricks in front of the opening to the oven. The exposed sheet metal in each corner is barely visible. That metal is based on Jim/James' suggestion to block the corners when I pour Perlite over the dome. In order to keep enough of the Perlite insulation on top of the igloo, I may need to mix Perlcrete for just the top.

(M) The roof will first be clad in HardiBacker panels. I have not yet decided what the ultimate top roofing material will be but I'm leaning to interlocking metal roof.

Ciao,

Marcel

Marcel 02-17-2006 08:18 AM

Refractory Mortar or Furnace cement for metal collar?
 
(M) When I attach the metal collar to the clay liner should I use Refractory Mortar or Furnace Cement?

Thanks,

Marcel

jengineer 02-18-2006 11:17 AM

bump
 
sorry no help but here is one way to make it on top of the heap. They call it "bump" as in make a blank post to bump it to the front of the line!

james 02-18-2006 12:40 PM

Both?
 
Marcel,

Why not use both. You can seal the chimney to the vent with the caulk (it only costs $5), then pack the whole assembly with refractory mortar. Not expensive or time consuming and a solid assembly.

James

Marcel 02-18-2006 02:51 PM

No "bumps" in The Road Less Traveled"
 
(M) Thanks again to both Patrick and James for addressing another question about adhesives, and Patrick for your Bump suggestion. I have no vested interest in advancing my post over others so I decline your thought out suggestion.

(M) I am puzzled that somehow the Post in question is again listed on the Home Page. Perhaps one of you managed to move it here? It wasn't accessible yesterday and was availble before I changed my User CP.

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(M) James you wrote:

(J) "Marcel,

Why not use both. You can seal the chimney to the vent with the caulk (it only costs $5), then pack the whole assembly with refractory mortar. Not expensive or time consuming and a solid assembly.

James"

(M) I took most of your advice James, and thank you. What I did was placed 4 globs of Furnace Cement on the metal ring at N.S.E. & West. Between those globs I placed Refractory Mortar which gets hard but doesn't have as great adhesive properties as the Furnace Cement. The Furnace Cement however needs heat to cure and that is still at least a couple of months away. 'Till then, the mortar should be enough.

Gratzia,

Marcello

jengineer 02-18-2006 05:20 PM

post on home page
 
Marcel

the latest and newest post on a sub forum will be listed on the home page.

If I decide to go into the very first post on this sub forum and make a reply to it them it becomes the newest post and will show up on the home page.

If 14 people decide to create new subjects under this sub forum then the last person's subject will be listed on the home forum page. To find out that 13 other peole have posted new threads you will need to open up the sub forum.

Another way to look at this is the Home page is similar to your C drive/hard drive. When you explore it it shows all your directories in this case sub forums. The software will also show the latest document that has been modified while exploring the C drive. To see what what else is stored in the other directories or sub forums you need ot open up the directory to see all the items in that directory or sub forum.

hope that helps

patrick


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