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#201
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| Here are a couple of pics of the grout (Type S mortar) added to the stone veneer, to fill in the spaces between stones. The stonework is officially done! I probably should have left a more uniform space in between the stones, but I'm happy with the way it turned out. I used a 3/8" brick tuck-pointing tool to tuck-point it. Cleaning the excess mortar off the stone surface was the hardest part, but it only took a few hours overall. Daren
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#202
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| Daren, your stone veneer colours are fantastic. I see pinks and light purple or burgundy with the greens and blues. I vote for a dark grey to very light black roof or even a slate with some greenish colors in it. But...I honestly was born without the ID genes (interior design) and for some odd reason, I missed the FA gene (flower arranging) too (really wish I had both)But really, after looking at everyones finished oven pics, I'm surprised at how nice they all look wether they mix stones, colors and materials or keep everything "monolitic" and basic. You've already got such a nice base going that I can't wait to see your other oven enclosure and roof choices. Your thread and web album log is always fun watch. thanks, Dino
__________________ "Life is a banquet and most poor sons-of-bitches are starving to death." -Auntie Mame View My Picasa Web Album UPDATED oct To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. My Oven Costs Spreadsheet To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. My Oven Thread To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Last edited by Dino_Pizza; 07-21-2009 at 10:56 PM. |
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#203
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| Darren, It looks great... I am going to have to make a trip up to pay tribute to your mad skills. Peter |
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#204
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| Thanks Dino and Peter, but please, I'm just learning as I go along! Like most people, I suppose. But you're right Dino, they all seem to turn out pretty nice, warts and all.
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#205
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| Daren, You did a great job with the stone "jigsaw" puzzle. It really came together great. A few questions. Did you use an additive to the mortar to make it "stickier"? Are the stone's "sticky" enough to try going from top to bottom to avoid dripping mortar on those already installed? Did you start right on the cement foundation, or leave an inch or two at the bottom (I've seen different recommendations from different manufacturers"? Thanks again. Looking forward to your roof!
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#206
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| Thanks Mike! Yes, I painted the blocks with a Quikrete adhesive product, based on the instructions from the stone supplier. I also tried some of the adhesive that you add to the mortar (looked like the same milky-white liquid), but it didn't seem to make applying them any easier. The stones were fairly "sticky" once I pressed them into place, but then I braced them with sticks and boards for a few hours (minimum) just in case. I learned my lesson early after a few stones fell off. Because there's a gap between stones, there's no advantage to applying them from bottom to top, so I think it would work out much better to go from top to bottom. And you can cut the bottom edge and no one will see it.I did start right on the foundation. I didn't see any advice on that from the supplier, so I hope I did it right! I laid them in a bed of mortar and tuck-pointed the joint.That's another case where I wish I knew more about masonry and its interaction with water/snow/freezing, because there are several aspects to this project that make me really nervous. If the mortar soaks up rain and then it freezes, could the stones crack off? I also regret not sealing my foundation wall with tar, because I'm nervous about that cracking after it soaks up water and freezes. I guess I'll find out!
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#207
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| I'm sure you'll be fine. If that were a major issue it'd be in the oven plans by now, right? Any chance of a pic of the grouted wall from a distance (while we're waiting for you to finish the roof etc)?
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#208
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| I'm going to install a 2" polished concrete shelf on top of my cantilever, and here's a picture of how I prepared the surface (the shelf was poured offsite and will be laid in place). I wanted a slope for runoff, so I used a strip of 3/8" Hardiebacker as a shim and added fireclay to fill the void, and I'm thinking of using some type of adhesive on the front edge. Anyone see potential problems with this idea? I'll probably use mortar to seal the short edges. The 2 small squares of cement board by the oven opening are just there to show where the wallboard will be placed once the shelf is in. I did start another thread on this, to get input on the shim: Link (Shims under concrete shelf? Help!)
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#209
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| Frances, here are some pics of the completed stone veneer. I recommend spacing them a little farther apart than I did, but it's a personal preference I guess. Once the grout has had time to cure, I'll probably seal the stones with a product called "Prosoco Stone Enhancer," which will really bring out the color (and help preserve it). I also possibly should NOT have used those big triangular corner stones; they're a little too big for a small surface area like this. Daren
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#210
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| Daren, I think the walls look awesome. I see no problems with the big Nevada shaped stones. Again, nice work!
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and for some odd reason, I missed the FA gene (flower arranging) too
(really wish I had both)
Because there's a gap between stones, there's no advantage to applying them from bottom to top, so I think it would work out much better to go from top to bottom. And you can cut the bottom edge and no one will see it.
I laid them in a bed of mortar and tuck-pointed the joint.
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