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  #11  
Old 12-09-2007, 03:44 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

neil,
What is the process of polishing the concrete? That looks really good. I would like to give it a try.
fb66

p.s. do you have a door?
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2007, 05:13 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil2 View Post
The first photo is of the 2 in poured reinforced concrete "belt" that holds it all together. This extends up to the height of the first soldier course.
Neil,

Do you have any photos of the detail? I’m interested in the reinforcing & formwork etc.

I’ve been thinking about pouring some buttressing like this, but using an insulating castable refractory as I don’t want to add any more thermal mass to my oven. Johnrbek (offline since May) went down this route for his “true Neopolitan Pizza Oven” – see http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/f...oven-1453.html (Feeling brave... a true Neopolitan Pizza Oven) and Low Dome Neapolitan Oven Update - Dome Construction. Photo Gallery by John Bek at pbase.com

Nice looking oven!

Cheers, Paul.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2007, 06:04 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Fullback66

Here are some pictures of the door. It started out as a damaged aluminum road sign. By pure luck it was exactly the right height to fit the inside lintel. Since my door opening is tapered, I simply bent back "wings" to match the taper. Forms a failrly tight opening. The bent wings also also it to stand up so I don't have to prop it against something when it is not in the door. The second photo is looking down on the top edge. I used some leftover aluminum channel from my soffit redo, pop riveted these top and bottom. The insulation is the type that is used to insulate electric ovens. A heating supply place will probably carry it or you can stop by your local dump/recyclers and fish out a piece from an old stove. The temperature gauge is from an old barbecue . It only goes to 700 f but is useful when you are baking bread or slow cooking a roast. The handle is a Marshaltown trowel handle - this is not connected directly to the face ( it burned when I did this). I formed a sort of "stand off" bracket out of plumbers strapping.
Attached Thumbnails
Flying Saucer-im002173.jpg   Flying Saucer-im002175.jpg   Flying Saucer-im002177.jpg  

Last edited by Neil2; 07-11-2010 at 02:23 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2007, 06:20 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Paul


"I’ve been thinking about pouring some buttressing like this, but using an insulating castable refractory as I don’t want to add any more thermal mass to my oven."

Try it. One thing about pouring (and then grinding) is that you can get pretty much any shape you want.

I did two pours for the opening. The first was a vermiculite/perlite/portland cement mix. Although this is not a refractory (because of the use of portland cement) it is fully contained by the second pour and the shell so that when it breaks down it will stay in place. Here are a few more photos - I hope they help.
Attached Thumbnails
Flying Saucer-oven-752.jpg   Flying Saucer-oven-753.jpg   Flying Saucer-oven-804.jpg  

Last edited by Neil2; 07-11-2010 at 02:24 PM.
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2007, 06:52 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

fb66


"What is the process of polishing the concrete? That looks really good. I would like to give it a try."


This could take a whole thread by itself. Concrete countertops are suprisingly easy to make - they just take a lot of hours grinding and polishing. Very simply:
-Pour concrete. 1 1/2 inch thick. Use the bags of pre mix - they tend to have a more vairied stone colour than crush. Add some concrete dye if you want. Put in some inserts for tie downs and pot hangers.
- Let set 3 days. Shape edge and grind off surface layer exposing and cutting into the aggregate. Use a 5 in angle grinder with a diamond cup grinder. Do this all wet.
- Keep wet and let set another 20 days. Now sart in on the wet polishing. You can get a set of 4 in diamond pollish pads (the 4 in pads will work fine on your 5 in angle grinder). A 50 grit-100-200-500-1000-3000 grit set will work. Note this is very messy. You can get almost a mirror shine without any coating or covering. Totally food safe and heat resistant.
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  #16  
Old 12-10-2007, 07:35 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

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Use a 5 in angle grinder with a diamond cup grinder. Do this all wet...

(the 4 in pads will work fine on your 5 in angle grinder).
Thanks for the info!! What kind of angle grinder? Does it matter? The websites I've been looking at are talking about variable speed $400 wet grinders.

Is this necessary or can this be done with a Black & Decker or Harbor Freight cheapo grinder?

Thanks again for the informative posts!
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  #17  
Old 12-12-2007, 05:40 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Ken

"Thanks for the info!! What kind of angle grinder? Does it matter? The websites I've been looking at are talking about variable speed $400 wet grinders."

I used a Porter-Cable 5in angle grinder. It is a single speed 11,000 rpm. I think it was about $150 or so five years ago. I've built 5 concrete counter tops and three tables so far and it has performed well.

Do get a 5 in grinder. The smaller 4 in ones are for different purpose/lighter tasks and won't stand up the amount of grinding.

(Once you have an angle grinder in your tool box you will be amazed at how many things it can be used for.)
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2007, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil2 View Post
I used a Porter-Cable 5in angle grinder. It is a single speed 11,000 rpm. ..

Do get a 5 in grinder. The smaller 4 in ones are for different purpose/lighter tasks and won't stand up the amount of grinding.
Thanks Neil!
That is most helpful.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2008, 03:26 AM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Cool oven, very different.
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:54 AM
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Default Re: Flying Saucer

Neil2,
Great build. Did you put any steel in the coutertop slab? Also, did you pour it in place or attach it after you fabricated it?
Beautiful work.
gene
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