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#11
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| I used the Simpson Duravent stuff and the only thing that's holding my anchor plate on at present is fire caulk. So far it seems more than adequate. Conceivably, it might be able to be knocked loose if the chimney pipe got pushed sideways, but I figure that once the roof is built around it and the storm collar and flashing is in place there's no way its going anywhere. I think what you're describing doing is unnecessairly complicated and overkill. Plus, I believe that anywhere you have mortar and potentially hot metal meeting, the mortar will eventually crack and come loose anyway. I'd say fire caulk to make the joint where the plate meets the flue bricks air tight and then a couple of tapcons or screws into the brick for for insurance. |
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#12
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| Thanks for your response. I don't have any experience with fire caulk and didn't find many postings about it. After finding out how intumescent caulk works I agree. I am going to use bolts to hold it in place though.
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#13
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| Following the advice of others, I pre-drilled the brick and used Tapcon screws to hold the baseplate down. I also placed a thin layer of insulation blanket between the plate and the brick, and made the screws snug but not tight. Seems to work great so far, even after repeatedly removing the chimney pipe. Here's a picture. Daren
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#14
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| Didn't get as much done as we hoped but getting closer. Finished course 7 and 8 which are the last 2 that will meet the entry and vent transition. Since it's so hard to stop once you get going and it's getting really hard to reach the courses I decided to try working from above. Had to take a break every now and then but was much better for my back and made it possible to work 10 hours.
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#15
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| Got the base plate mounted too. Ended up using stainless bolts mortared in and fire caulk. The bolts aren't there to do much just keep it from coming loose while we're working on it. We set the chimney on to see how it will work and got a few wider shots. Hope the weather will keep cooperating next weekend, maybe we'll get it closed up and ready to cure.
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#16
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| Now that we can use the guide above the entry arch we noticed there is a slight teardrop shape. Spent most of the day correcting this with a partial course to straighten it out so only got 1 course done Saturday. Wasn't happy with that so got started early Sunday and got a second one done. We went to 1/4 bricks to minimize the gaps at the bottom of the bricks which seemed to work and made it easier to get them to stay in place with the steep angle. Getting really close to closing it in, should only have 2 more courses then the keystone.
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#17
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| great pictures, and really nice work! You'll be cooking in it before you know it! |
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#18
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| Almost didn't get it closed in this weekend but we made it. It took 3 courses and the keystone. The blade we had wore out sooner than we thought so couldn't finish that night.
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#19
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| The next morning we finished the last course and the keystone. Didn't have time to clean it up for the pictures but had enough time to keep the gaps to a minimum with a tight fit to lock it in place. We were able to use the guide clamp till now but the exercise ball worked really well.
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#20
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| very nice work, indeed!
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