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-   -   36" in Seattle (http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f21/36-seattle-7878.html)

kebwi 09-13-2009 06:08 PM

36" in Seattle
 
5 Attachment(s)
It begins! It's hard to appreciate from a picture of a hole in the ground just how much effort goes into making such a hole. I haven't leveled it yet, and I suspect I may need to go a little deeper anyway (3" gravel + 5" concrete = 8" foundation, let concrete rise above lawn by about 2" means I need 6" deep level across the bottom).

Important question: you will notice that I am attempting a rather large opening on the right side. The opening on the left side is four half-blocks wide, 32". The opening on the right side is five half-blocks wide, 40". With angle iron and/or an extra rebar right across the lintel position, should that be okay? Remember, I'm only building a 36" oven and I don't intend to build a brick enclosure (going for stucco), so it should be amongst the lightest of ovens.

Thanks.

KINGRIUS 09-13-2009 07:29 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
Kebwi, the design I used for my oven stand has a 40" opening in the front between block. It has NO angle iron support. It does have two layers of steel mesh with 1/2" rebar grid (similar to your digital model hearth slab drawing). This design is to support a huge barrel vault oven, not a smaller pompeii style oven. I have never heard of a hearth slab collapsing using this design.
I don't see your two gaps being a support problem, especially with your angle iron support.
My $0.02 worth.

Darius

kebwi 09-13-2009 07:39 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
Well, that's certainly good news. What if I DON'T use any angle iron (but double up the rebar across the lintel)? Does anyone think I would have a problem with that? I would love to skip the angle iron. That ****'s expensive!!! ;-)

Incidentally, it is a little strange to include the interior angle iron when there is not a course of blocks above it. That interior angle iron is essentially embedded in the support slab. Does anyone have any thoughts on that? Since my design has no blocks above the angle iron should I only put it on the external face...if at all?

Les 09-13-2009 08:30 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
You won't need the angle iron. If you are stacking block, it makes it easy to do. Just make sure you bend the steel into the block (for more pull strength). Steel and concrete is plenty strong - you most likely drive over it every day. ;)

Les...

kebwi 09-13-2009 09:31 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
@Les:

I'm afraid I don't quite understand. When you say bend the steel into the block, I presume you are referring to the rebar embedded in the hearth. Are you suggesting that the rebar be bent ninety degress straight down into the cores of the wall? I was hoping to do this job without bending any 1/2" rebar? I'm pretty confident I can cut it with a conventional grinder and the right blade, but as or bending it...sheesh...it's half an inch thick!

By the way, I noticed that your support hearth does not rest on top of the block walls, but rather is held up by the rebar extending *into* the wall through slotted blocks. Would you recommend that over the Pompeii directions for any particular reason? I'm open to any ideas on the subject.

Thanks.

Neil2 09-14-2009 10:50 AM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
"I would love to skip the angle iron. That ****'s expensive!!! ;-)"

Old bed frames.

"but as or bending it...sheesh...it's half an inch thick!"

Most building suppliers who sell rebar will have a hand operated bending tool in their yard for use by customers. Use 3/8 inch rebar instead of 1/2 inch rebar . This is much easier to handle. Just up the rebar quantity (reduce spacing) by 25%.

kebwi 09-14-2009 10:53 AM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
I've read the bed frame hint on forno bravo before. I was weary because, obviously, framing angle iron is much much thinner than the gauge specified in the Pompeii directions.

It'll still work? I mean, I guess it can only help, but the question is, does it serve a purpose at that gauge, whatever gauge bed frames are?

Neil2 09-14-2009 02:37 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
You don't need the angle iron. Throw a couple of extra 3/8 rebar over the lintel areas. This rebar should be bent down 18 inches or so and concreted into the wall. Also put an extra 3/8 inch rebar in an "L" shape around the "weak" corner. I would make the suspended slab at least 4 inches thick with all rebar near the middle vertically.

Rebar is cheap.

kebwi 09-14-2009 03:20 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
1 Attachment(s)
So something like this?

Neil2 09-14-2009 03:43 PM

Re: 36" in Seattle
 
Something like that. Make the "L" longer running the full lenght of each side.

What is the spacing on your grid ? I would make it 6 inches or so, with the lintel bars as extras. I am assuming you are using 3/8 inch rebar.

The straight pieces should also be bent down in to the walls or be hooked at the ends.

What graphics software are you using ?


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