#21  
Old 05-01-2009, 01:36 PM
cynon767's Avatar
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Default Re: oven door

I might be a little hesitant to use purpleheart... I've heard it's dust has properties as an irritant. Besides, it's color fades pretty quickly when left outdoors, so I'm not so sure it would be much better than something comparable... maybe walnut, maybe oak. Something I'm certain is nontoxic, basically.

Personally, I'm leaning toward the "soak it & use it until it's charred" method as well... but as my oven is not yet beyond the digging foundations stage, it will be a while until I can get back to you all with results.
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2009, 02:28 AM
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Default Re: oven door

i do have a nice big piece of ambrosia maple, also a piece of mahogany and teak (old growth) problem with teak is still too oily.. mahogany maybe.. maybe i will just order a solid piece of maple and see how it goes with that. you are right about the purpleheart being an irritant, i can remember that from cutting it. thanks for the info

Mark
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  #23  
Old 06-16-2009, 02:13 PM
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Default Re: oven door

Hi Jim,

Great looking door!

Is the fiberglass tape you used a special make that withstands high heat?
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  #24  
Old 06-16-2009, 08:18 PM
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Default Re: oven door

Thanks Bill,

The tape's purpose in life is high heat applications. It's name (fiberglass tape) is a bit misleading, it is a 2" x 1/8" fiberglass weave . Around here it goes for $60 for a 100ft roll. I happily purchased the roll for the sake of the 6 feet I used because I couldn't come up with a better idea for encasing the two pieces of insulation board without using a material that contradicts the concept of an insulated door. The tape works perfectly, it has been in place for a little over one year, and remains rock solid.

Quick math and the photo below will tell you I have a bit left over. If you go down this path drop me a note, I would be happy to sell you what you need for your door for $3.60 (assuming 6 feet) plus whatever it costs to get it to you (pretty lightweight stuff). Also if you are interested I can send you out instructions on how to create the door.

By the way, I love the look of your oven!

Jim


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  #25  
Old 06-17-2009, 06:51 AM
bbell's Avatar
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Default Re: oven door

Thanks Jim, that's very helpful. Do you then just paint adhesive over the tape to saturate it. And what did you use on the back face of the ceramic board (facing the fire)? Was that too layered with tape?

I picked up some kiln repair product yesterday that i will try to use as a layer to encase the 2" FB board. I first used some "rigidizer" on the board to make it a little more stable. If this combo doesn't work I'll be in the tape business with you.

I appreciate it.
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  #26  
Old 06-17-2009, 08:33 PM
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Default Re: oven door

Bill,
No, actually the only thing applied to the tape is the adhesive that adheres it to the insulation board inside, this keeps the untreated outside the "give" necessary for a nice tight fit to the entrance wall. The outside back (towards the fire) is a piece of sheet metal, next in line towards the door front is a layer of 1" insulation board, then another piece of sheet metal that acts as a heat sink for the screws connecting the back piece to the middle piece, then another piece of 1" insulation, then the oak front. A separate set of screws connect the middle sheet metal to the oak front (insulation board in between). The back piece of metal is cut slightly smaller on the sides and top so that there is a slight slope in, which serves to prevent the fiberglass tape from catching on the side and also forms a wedge-like fit to the door.

Jim

Last edited by jcg31; 06-17-2009 at 08:37 PM.
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  #27  
Old 07-02-2009, 01:03 PM
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Default Re: oven door

Jim,

Thanks for sending the tape. Should work great.

Bill
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