#11  
Old 10-06-2010, 09:44 AM
Peasant
 
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Default Re: Floor buckled

Yea 4" vermiculite concrete which was left for 4 weeks before i did anything else. It was very firm.
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2010, 10:24 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Default Re: Floor buckled

You might consider pulling the floor and relaying a looser fit floor - and if it isn't smooth enough - use a sander to even it up. The bricks don't need a super tight fit to be a good, functional floor.
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  #13  
Old 10-06-2010, 05:57 PM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I have been on this forum a little over 5 years and I have NEVER seen anything like this. It has always been deemed safe to place the dome on top of the floor, but this obviously makes a strong argument against doing that. Has your hearth slab been compromised in any way? If thats not the case, I would remove all the floor brick that you can and grind down the rest. Place a thin ceramic board down to get an even surface and replace the floor. It's a butt load of work but it will get your oven back to working.

Good luck!

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  #14  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:11 PM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I disagree Les. Placing the dome on the floor has nothing to do with this, nor does mortaring it down.

I hate to do forensic masonry diagnosis (although I do forensic masonry diagnosis often) from a few pictures, but my best guess is that the wedge of refractory cement underneath the chamfered bricks has failed in some places forcing one end of the brick up. Thermo-tumescence is the correct term, but I have not seen it with these materials. If it were a compressive failure, it would be more or less uniform around the perimeter, and the upthrust ends would have an equivalent downthrust end, which they do not appear to have.
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  #15  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:17 PM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I'm still in the planning stage. If I don't want to place the dome on the floor, should the FB insulation be sized to the outside of the dome, or the inside?

Stray
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:20 PM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tscarborough View Post
I disagree Les. Placing the dome on the floor has nothing to do with this, nor does mortaring it down.
Clearly, if the floor was "floating" It would be a hell of a lot easier to replace. Thats where I was going with that statement. I thought about the chamfer being the cause, but if the mortar failed at that point, where could it go? To lift the brick 3/4 of an inch, something else has to be coming into play.

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  #17  
Old 10-06-2010, 06:24 PM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I got ya. Yes replacement would be easier if the floor was not under the bricks.

But the advantages of the walls on the floor still outweigh placing the floor inside, I think, although certainly not for this case.


Edit- It would appear that the mortar used experienced thermo-tumescence, which means it swelled when it was heated. Many things do this. What was your mortar, DublinTom, and do you have a spec sheet on the vermiculite used (raw vermiculite is extremely thermo-tumescent).

Last edited by Tscarborough; 10-06-2010 at 06:27 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-07-2010, 05:36 AM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I'm pondering the concept of thermo-tumescence. Is this different than standard expansion of materials?
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  #19  
Old 10-07-2010, 06:14 AM
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Default Re: Floor buckled

Yes, because a material that experiences heat expansion will return to it's normal size when it cools down. It is also a matter of degree. Perlite, for example, when it is processed from the raw material can expand 10 to 20 times in volume.
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  #20  
Old 10-07-2010, 07:22 AM
Peasant
 
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Default Re: Floor buckled

I took out the floor today. I think i was just unlucky with the batch of bricks that I used as they seem to have failed completely. Literally the bottom half of some of the bricks just crumbled away. Interestingly the homemade mortar skim that I used to square out the brick was perfect. I am going to buy some new bricks and lay a new floor. I was lucky with the the layout in that i did not have to remove much from under the walls.
I could probably lay down the new bricks exactly the same way if they are exactly the same size but should i leave expansion gap around the circumference, and if so how much.
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