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  #41  
Old 04-29-2013, 10:55 PM
Master Builder
 
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

I did my last cure fire today, got up to 750-770F. Cracks appeared to have gotten wider, and now i can see through the crack at one area. I can see the fire ever so slightly, Structurally i guess it will be okay and i know it will still function as it should. My question is how do i repair it and what is the best way? Heat it up, have the cracks open up, grind out the cracks, widen the cracks and fill the cracks back in?. Now what do i use? Heatstop50? Rutland cement? Rutland gasket cement?. I have a bottle of the Rutland gasket cement which is good for 2000F, however i dont think that will be safe for food. I would really appreciate the help guys.


Here is the widest cracks



Here is the area of the largest crack going down to the floor.



Opposite side of the dome.



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  #42  
Old 04-29-2013, 10:56 PM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

And the crack where you can see through

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  #43  
Old 04-29-2013, 10:57 PM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

May i add that ive been heating it up gradually, not very slow but fairly slow, i had fire in there for about 4 hours.
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  #44  
Old 04-30-2013, 07:56 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Location: So. Orange County, CA. USA
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

V-wiz, have you insulated?
Here is where I'm headed.. Whatever you do to patch the cracks will not be structural or at least not very. I think I'd mix a small batch of render, just enough to fill these cracks. Insulate the dome with your blanketing start working on the finishing of the igloo or house. The insulation will not burn and it will stop these cracks from venting. The other thing it will do for you is to even out the dome temps and so minimize the stresses that promote cracking.

My opinion is that once you start curing above 250F there are advantages for loosely covering the dome with insulation. One of these advantages is promoting a more even heating of the dome and so minimizing cracking. This is my opinion and it's just theory... and you're far past 250F and your dome is ready to cook, so no matter what you need to insulate and weatherize..



Thanks

Chris

Last edited by SCChris; 04-30-2013 at 08:36 AM.
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  #45  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:09 AM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

Thanks Chris, i will fix the cracks this weekend and insulate permanently, any special mortar i should use to fill the cracks?
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  #46  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:11 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

I think your render mix should be fine.

Best to you.

Chris
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  #47  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:16 AM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

Should i heat it up for the crack to expand then fill the crack? Or grind out the crack to widen it then fill the crack? Thanks
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  #48  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:56 AM
Il Pizzaiolo
 
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

I'd fill it when it's tight rather than wide, I wouldn't want to create a wedge that makes things worse.. Tscarsborough, would be my go to on this.

Chris
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  #49  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:45 AM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

Thats what i was thinking. I just purchased Rutland fireplace mortar, it says for repairing cracked and chipped firebrick and repoint mortar joints. Also good for 2000f. Its basically what i want to do. So ill widen the cracks and fill it in.
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  #50  
Old 04-30-2013, 01:49 PM
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Default Re: Steady good heat without the large flames. How?

Good luck, I've found crack repairs to never be particularly successful. But you'll need to get some moisture back into the crack before attempting a repair. Try making a thin slurry of pure calcium aluminate cement and get it onto the mating surfaces after the water, then fill with your heatstop.

I'm an advocate of curing t he oven after insulation because if the dome is uncovered there is a huge temperature difference between the inside temp and the outside temp which may have bee n the cause of your cracks.
What was the outside ambient temperature at the time you were firing?

Looking at the first photo on this thread it seems as though you have a lot of coinciding vertical joints, this could also be a contributor.

Last edited by david s; 04-30-2013 at 02:52 PM.
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