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  #221  
Old 12-07-2011, 02:52 PM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

The U.S. translation for Heat beads is charcoal briquettes.

I used a weed burner and LP gas, but as you'll soon hear, many around here consider this method very dangerous and this not recommended by the FB community.

The briquette method is predictable and safe just a bit messy. If you go with the briquettes, consider raising the bed of briquettes above the floor with a grill. This will allow you to get rid of the ash and get oxygen to the fuel. You're going to go through a few bags before you move into burning wood somewhere over 300F. The wood fire is going to be a more dynamic fire that heats faster than you'll expect.

As the oven dries, you will find that the amount of fuel required to heat a set number of degrees will decrease. This will likely surprise you with a burn or two pushing the oven to a higher than intended temp. It'll be ok as long as you know to build your fires slower than you'd like by waiting to add fuel.

I think where people get in trouble curing is almost always due to pushing the temps up faster than they should. Long low slow burns starts the water moving out of the oven and keeps it moving out.

Chris
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  #222  
Old 12-07-2011, 04:17 PM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

Thanks, thats all very helpful information. I never heard of charcoal called beads, you learn something new every day.
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  #223  
Old 12-07-2011, 08:56 PM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

Throw some plastic sheet over your oven when you think it is dry. If moisture gathers on the underside of the plastic you know it's not dry.
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  #224  
Old 12-08-2011, 03:59 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

The dome is already under roof with cement board on the walls so I dont think that will work for me. I think I will go with using a forgers torch to cure it, seems like you can control the heat better than a fire. Thanks for your suggestions.
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  #225  
Old 12-08-2011, 04:18 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

If yours is an enclosure and you added the insulation loose, you probably have less to worry about. But if you added cement and water to perlite or vermiculite then you will have added a huge amount of water that will take a long time to remove. i can't talk about the use of gas, as it has been banned on this forum, but you can re read the entire "curing" thread to help you.
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  #226  
Old 12-08-2011, 05:35 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

I have about 6" of the loose vermiculite over the top of the 3 layers of the ceramic blanket.
I should have time next week to start the curing process.
How important is it to build the fires on consecutive days?
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  #227  
Old 12-08-2011, 06:03 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

I believe a very slow and steady increase of temperature (around 25 C/hr) is called for, however particularly when firing with wood it is difficult to control the fire and keep the flame away from direct impingement and because heat rises you wil heat the top of the dome and the centre of the floor much faster and too much greater temperatures than the rest. However if you let it cool and waited several days some of the moisture would migrate back to the areas that had dried so the moisture distribution would be more even. Then when reheating the temperature difference of the different parts of the oven would be less. The consecutive days thing is really only a convenience thing IMO. I don't think it really makes much difference you just need to take it slow to be safe.

Last edited by david s; 12-08-2011 at 06:08 AM.
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  #228  
Old 12-08-2011, 06:10 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

Very good point, it makes sense that time for the oven moisture to even out between firings will help to minimize problems. Thanks
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  #229  
Old 12-08-2011, 06:14 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

Yes, but I think you'd need more than a day for it to do that, probably about a week.
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  #230  
Old 12-08-2011, 07:14 AM
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Default Re: Oven Curing

I probably wont wait a week in between, that would put me at about mid January to cook my pizza. I will post my process.
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