#51  
Old 03-22-2008, 05:22 AM
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Location: Reno, NV
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Default Re: Curing strategy

As I have cured my oven, the drop in temperature from the previous night is not great. How do you answer this into the maintains heat concerns? Is going down 40% in heat overnight that significant, i.e. 600 cure yesterday, to waking up and starting with 397 degrees? I agree that it would likely be best to maintain a heat to drive out the moisture, but that will be the next generation, correct? I believe we are on the right path. If we do not have the heat maintained, which would have to be wood free, then we have the next beth method right now.
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  #52  
Old 03-22-2008, 01:25 PM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

OK, now for my final documentation on curing. I say it is the best method until shown otherwise. Yes, I had cracks. The best thing with this method is that it allowed me to bond with the oven, and I know that sounds wierd. I mean bond by acts of knowledge. I can now use the wood in a constructive manner to heat up the oven, maintain heat, increase, balance, and know saturation. All this during curing process. Could I have prevented cracks, I already wrote my details earlier on my thoughts regarding this. Would I build another oven, YES! I will likely build a smaller version for my in-laws from ACOMA. Life is short and special, so try it, love it, soak it in. This was a special moment in my project life that allowed me to do something I thought I could not do. I did this all myself. Oh ya, this is about curing. Wrap yourself around this new method, it will help so much.
The end!
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  #53  
Old 03-22-2008, 08:20 PM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

Like a great wine, you also have a great finish Robert. I'm glad to hear that you're happy with the results. Embrace you're oven, give it a big kiss. (Keep your tongue in your mouth. They don't taste that good!)
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  #54  
Old 03-23-2008, 08:09 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

KISSSSSSSSSSSSSS. Ohh how sweet that was

I am sooooo happy!

Finished the oven at 1:30pm Saturday with a 30 minute 900-950 burn. I then go out at 7:30am this morning to check retained heat temp. Guess what? It was at 453 degrees, wow! Of course I forgot to check the floor temp, this was dome temp. Approx 65% retained heat 18 hours later due to the 700 cure day. I still have more insulation to do
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  #55  
Old 03-30-2008, 04:55 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

Quote:
Originally Posted by david sewell View Post
I use one of those gas rings with a long braided metal hose attached to a 9Kg LPG gas bottle, set it at 1/2 throttle and let it burn all night. It doesn't go over 200 C which is safe. We use the procedure to dry out clay work in our kiln prior to biscuit firing to avoid steam explosions. Gas flame is the best for eliminating water. I then light a wood fire and keep it gentle by using heat beads. Build up slowly until all the damp patches on the outside stucco are gone then build up to 400 C. Hope this helps.
David
I am using your method to cure my oven at the moment and it working great - thanks!. I am about to go into day 3 and the temperatures of the floor, dome and air are rising slowly but surely almost exactly as recommended. I have only just started my second 9 kg bottle of gas with the burner still at 1/2 throttle. May need to crank to full throttle if the temps stop rising. Very little maintenance required which is a bonus.
Also, I would like to try Eucalyptus because it is just so abundant in Australia but it seems to be getting a bad wrap. What is your experience with it? I also have access to some very old gidgee posts (100 years approx so it should be well seasoned). Have you or anyone else used it? Apparently it burns incredibly hot and for a long time so may need to try a little to start.
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  #56  
Old 03-30-2008, 05:12 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

I'm pleased the gas ring worked well for you. I'm sure this is the best method yet. Slow, gentle and even temp rise. Way to go.
On the wood- the best wood is free wood. I think we must have exported all the crappy eucalypt varieties to USA Iv'e never heard or experienced any problems here in Oz. Have heard gidgee is really good to burn, but you'll need to split it up and That sounds like work.
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  #57  
Old 03-30-2008, 05:15 AM
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Mieno, If you've been heating for three days I'd be switching to wood to take it the rest of the way up.
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  #58  
Old 03-30-2008, 05:49 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

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Originally Posted by david sewell View Post
Mieno, If you've been heating for three days I'd be switching to wood to take it the rest of the way up.
David

I will switch to wood in the morning but the temps just keep slowly rising on the gas. The floor and side of the dome are at ~300C with the top of the dome ~350C. I found a site that has a good curing section Curing a Traditional Woodfired Oven
They use heat beads. Would you go from gas to heat beads then wood?
Where are you in Australia by the way?
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  #59  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:04 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

I would go straight to wood (not too much vicious flame) and the heat beads too ( say 3 handfuls) Around 50 C/Hr rise should be safe. Do you have any damp patches on the outside ? Sounds like it's going perfectly Thanks for the link I'll check it out. We're in beautiful Townsville.
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  #60  
Old 03-30-2008, 06:14 AM
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Default Re: Curing strategy

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Originally Posted by david sewell View Post
I would go straight to wood (not too much vicious flame) and the heat beads too ( say 3 handfuls) Around 50 C/Hr rise should be safe. Do you have any damp patches on the outside ? Sounds like it's going perfectly Thanks for the link I'll check it out. We're in beautiful Townsville.
No damp patches but I can't recall ever seeing any. I have a refractory concrete dome then 5 layers of ceramic blanket then chicken wire and render over. Should I be seeing damp patches? Also, have you tried that step down method to start your fire?
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