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chimney-fluliner installation? - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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Dear forum users,
Thank you for your patience with the Photo galleries. We've got your galleries online!
We have finished writing a custom script to migrate the PhotoPlog to vBulletin5’s albums.

Unfortunately V-Bulletin killed the "Photoplogs" in their software upgrade which was unforeseen and we're the first development group to have written a script for getting the galleries back... that said, it took some time to reverse engineer the code and get the albums to move over seamlessly!

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chimney-fluliner installation?

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  • chimney-fluliner installation?

    I'm planing on building a chimney, with blocks on 3 sides and bricks on the front. I want to use a Clay Fluliner, but I have no idea on how to install it. Is the Fluliner masoned in with the bricks and blocks? or does it have to be freestanding with an air gap? In this case how would it be supported? and can it be closed in on the top with mortar? The Fluliner will be sitting on top of an double-arch, which has a 6"X10" opening, and I plan on using a 8"X13" Clay Fluliner.

    Is there anybody out there who can give me instructions installing this type of Chimney and Fluliner? Or are there any better ideas out there?

    Thanks in advance for any help,

    Rudi

  • #2
    Re: chimney-fluliner installation?

    The flue tile sits on top of your entry, and is refractory mortared to the brick arch. It should be carefully leveled, because the stuff is heavy and it has to be self supporting. The masonry enclosure is built around the flue tile, and has a half inch gap between the tile and the masonry. One "withe" or four inches of brick or block is called for by code. If you are building a tall chimney, you want your masonry enclosure to be independently supported, in other words, built up from the slab on two sides, rather than sit on the fire brick arch. At the top of the chimney, the flue tile stack is stabilized by a stone or cast concrete chimney cap. If cast, it should use a piece of flashing to allow slip between the cap and the flue liner: they heat and expand at quite different rates. This is less of a concern if your chimney is only four feet high or so, as is typical of outdoor ovens.

    Only in high earthquake danger areas should there be anything between the flue liner and the masonry enclosure: in those cases a loose material like vermiculite is used to stablize the flue liner in the enclosure.

    This is high building code stuff: most builders don't get this elaborate in free-standing ovens.
    My geodesic oven project: part 1, part 2

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    • #3
      Re: chimney-fluliner installation?

      Thanks for the quick reply dmun.

      The chimney will be 3'-4' tall .It will be sitting on a metal frame next to the arch, it is supported by blocks sitting on the hearth vermiculite insulation. Putting loose vermiculite between flu and liner is a good idea, since Sebastopol is in a earthquake zone. I'm planning on building my own cap out of bricks. If I understand you right,I have to put a flashing (spacer) between flu and chimney to stabilize the liner and assume it has to be vented because of the high temp between liner and flu.
      Sounds like a job just for the looks.
      I wonder if the same can be established just using a plain steel stovepipe. Hate to spend $ 260.00 for a stainless double wall pipe.

      I appreciate any further help and suggestions

      thank you,
      Rudi

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