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Sealing the chimney - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community



I'm Peter Reinhart! Ask Me Anything! Monday, February 15, 2016 7:00-8:00 pm EST

To kick off our AMA feature, we have invited author, chef and master bread maker and host of Pizza Quest, Peter Reinhart, to be our first host! Peter will be in the Forum on Monday, February 15th, from 7:00 - 8:00 pm EST. If you are unable to be online during the live session, you can post your questions in the sticky post. Peter will answer those questions during the live session on February 15th. You can view Peter's answers to your questions as well as what happened during the live session in the session thread.

Ask Me Anything New Forum Feature

You will notice a new forum at the top of the main page called, "Ask Me Anything". This forum will be used for live one hour "Ask Me Anything" (AMA) sessions hosted by people who are knowledgeable in different areas pertaining to wood fired ovens. How it works:
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Sealing the chimney

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  • Sealing the chimney

    Because my 8" DuraVent chimney will go directly through the peak of my gable-house roof, I'm thinking about building a square frame around the chimney at the peak (I guess you call it a "chase"). The frame would be covered with Hardibacker and then probably stucco. My questions are:

    1) How do I seal this thing? Freeze/thaw/rain is a big issue here. Do they make a flat flashing that slides over the chimney? Would the flashing cover the entire top of the chase and fold over the sides, over the stucco (like this one)? Or can I just stucco the flat part and use a hi-temp sealant where it hits the chimney pipe?

    2) If I use some type of roof tile (like slate or cement tiles), would I need more flashing at the intersection of the slanted roof tiles and the vertical chase?

    I'm beginning to think I need to hire a roofer!

    Here's the basic style I'm thinking of, though the chimney would extend a bit higher: Link
    Last edited by dbhansen; 05-22-2009, 11:13 AM.
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  • #2
    Re: Sealing the chimney

    Well since your reference is my oven, maybe I can help.

    I cut a hole in the roof decking, 6" wider than the pipe. While burning my curing fires I monitored the outside temp of the duravent, and 6" is overkill, but since I used wood decking I went with an extra insurance factor. Then I layed pieces of flashing over the gap, cut to fit around the pipe. I built the box out of durock only, screwed and mortared together. Then filled the box with stucco base as I was stucco'ing (is that a word) the box, making sure to slant it so that any water would run away from the pipe. That box isn't going anywheree now. It turns out the chimney cap completely covers my box, so unless it is raining sideways, it won't be getting wet. I can't claim any forethought on that one, luck all the way. My outside stucco finish coat is acrylic stucco, so it is waterproof and flexible, I put on top as well. No need for high temp caulk as the insulated chimney stays cooler than the sun will get the roof.

    I think that making sure your box is smaller than the chimney cap and that it is close, is a key to longevity. If there is no standing water on top, then there is no way for it soak in and without water, freeze cycles don't mean much. Make sure to use a waterproof coating on top.

    Can't help with tile or slate roofs, no experience. I would think same principle, good layered flashing, sealing at the joint.
    Last edited by wlively; 05-22-2009, 07:22 PM.
    Wade Lively


    • #3
      Re: Sealing the chimney

      Thanks Wade! I didn't realize that was your oven. I might copy your idea of wood trim around the roof, too; I like the look of that.

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