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I looked at their stuff but didn't see the reason to buy a kit. You can build the same thing in a day with some Trex, 25-gauge metal studs, self-tapping screws, and hardibacker. All available at your local hardware store.
One tip, get a chop saw to cut the studs. Saves a lot of time and improves accuracy
If you can build a WFO - you can certainly build your own cabinets
No, not for the oven house. I only used Trex where the cabinets came in contact with the ground so that I wouldn't have moisture issues. (Actually, I used a trex knock-off that I got out of the bargain bin for a buck a foot. That was a deal.) But the oven house should be sealed well enough that moisture coming up from the bottom is not an issue
thanks for the reply, appreciate your vote of confidence, but I have never built framing before, but you are right, if I can install an oven, I should be able to do this. Do you know of any reference books or sites that can help with design?
How did you secure your faming down, through the trex into the concrete? I have a retaining wall that I am placing my cabinets agaisnt, looks like you do as well. I was worried about securing cabinets to wall because retaining wall is poured concrete with a footer, and the slab is floating.
I have an electric compound miter saw, would that work if I got a metal blade for a chop saw?
On the "how to" front, I just looked for images of metal stud BBQ frames on the internet. There were a few "eHow" like guides that were crap. I copied what I saw, the only trick you need to know is how to cut the "track" to overlap the corner
I screwed the framing to the back of the retaining wall, and through the trex to the patio pavers. My pavers are floating on a gravel bed like your slab is - but I don't think the pavers are going to move as they are locked in by the "U" shape of my retaining wall. I guess there is some risk that the pavers will sink over time, but I figured I was better off locking the cabinets square.
One thing that you will find in working with the metal studs is that the construction seems totally flimsy until you get the sheathing on it. Sheathing + studs, it is rock solid.
On the saw - I used a 10" carbon chop-saw blade on my 12" miter saw. You get lots of sparks, but it works. The 12" chop-saw blades have a different sized hole, so you can't use them. There are also miter saw specific blades that are made for steel studs - but they are $50 and the chop saw blades are about $7-8. You decide
The stone veneer is from a friend's BBQ project. He bought too much so I benefited from "free" . I don't know the brand, but it is real stone, glued together. I think it is slate. I am looking forward to getting it installed!
Cabinets are 24" to the outside edge of the hardieboard. That's standard depth. But with the veneer they will be an inch or so so deeper. I plan do do 25 1/2 inch counters - maybe plus 1/2" because of the uneven nature of the veneer. Still deciding on that one.
I'm curious, deejayoh (or others) why, with the WFO, you're choosing to do the BBQ and kitchen areas framed with concrete board rather than just CMU. Is there really any cost difference? Build time? Space? Would love to know.
couple of reasons I went with the metal studs:
1) CMU are 8" thick, whereas metal stud + walls are < 4". So if you want cabinets and such, you get lots more room inside for the same outside space with metal studs
2) metal studs are easier to cut and configure for custom sizes - again, if you want interior cabinets it works better.
3) I call my oven "Cinquanta le Scale" 'cause it's 50 stairs from street to eat. I can carry 5 studs up the stairs at a time or 2 CMU.
But if you just want a simple square kitchen area with few/no cabinets - and don't have to carry things too far - CMU work just fine.
Excellent...thanks. I was actually planning on using 6 inch CMU for those areas for the interior space...so I understand you're feeling on this. So...that brings me to another question. You talked about flexibility with frame/board vs. CMU...my design calls for a curved counter (concave actually). Any ideas on how to do this with cement board? Is it flexible enough to do a radius curve of about 12-14 feet? I was planning on doing it with CMU (like the WFO stand) because I could execute the curve with half blocks.
if i can jump in...
I have been using a product called Permabase. It is flexible to form a 90 deg bend in 5 feet. Good stuff and can cut with knife and break like sheetrock. It comes in 4 x8 sheets. I couldn't find it at HD or Lowes (like so much of the stuff we need) but i am getting it from a local builders supply that had the metal studs as well.