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Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08 - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

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  • Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

    The new issue of Cooks Illustrated has a recipe for Pizza Bianca -- a crunchy focaccia from Rome. I'm going to try the recipe today, and it looks very good. 90% hydration.

    The back of the magazine lists some regional flatbreads, with nice illustrations. They picked -- papadam, matzo, corn tortilla, lavash, pita, injera, naan, barbari bread, focaccia and markook.

    More to come on this, but it looks fun.
    James
    Pizza Ovens
    Outdoor Fireplaces

  • #2
    Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

    I made the Pizza Bianca recipe today, and I am very, very happy with it. I will continue talking about this, and I think I will make a video of this in a wood oven -- it's great. I will post a photo a little later.

    The main things that set apart include 90% hydration, autolyse, nearly 9 minutes of mixing at a high speed (more on that later -- with thoughts from Hamelman), a long bulk fermentation of 2-2 1/2 hours, and gentle, almost zero dough handling.

    This has taken my focaccia, schiacciata, pizza bianca (whatever you call it) to a completely new level. The crust is crunchy and the crumb is incredible light and flavorful -- with huge holes. The crumb has character, but it isn't at all dense.

    Wahoo!

    James
    Last edited by james; 10-07-2008, 09:45 PM.
    Pizza Ovens
    Outdoor Fireplaces

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

      I saw that recipe a few weeks ago and thought it looked very promising. Did you make it in a conventional oven, as the recipe is written, or in the WFO? If the WFO, did you make any modifications because of the oven?
      Nikki

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

        90% hydration ??? That sounds more like soup than bread dough I just made the no-knead bread dough for the first time today ( 80% hydration) and it was simple, fool proof and yielded a great artesian loaf. I noticed that some bakers wet their hands rather than flour them for the high hydration recipes. Which do you prefer ?

        Bruce
        Last edited by brokencookie; 10-07-2008, 09:48 PM. Reason: fat fingers, small keys
        Sharpei Diem.....Seize the wrinkle dog

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        • #5
          Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

          I baked by first one in a conventional oven (tonight), and I am going to start experimenting with my Primavera oven next. The 90% hydration was just right -- it was sort of a batter, but if you really mix the heck out of it, you can develop enough gluten to create strands and the feeling of a loose dough. The dough really holds nice holes in the crumb.

          Because I was making a focaccia, with lots of olive oil on the outside, I covered my hands with oil to keep them from stick. Water works well also.

          I am going to read over the Hamelman book now -- he talks a lot about gluten developement and it is relevant to this dough.

          Onward.
          James
          Pizza Ovens
          Outdoor Fireplaces

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

            One last thing. I left the sugar out.
            James
            Pizza Ovens
            Outdoor Fireplaces

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

              Here are a couple of photos. Check out the holes. The crust reached a nice brown, with some carmelization.

              Very cool.
              James
              Attached Files
              Pizza Ovens
              Outdoor Fireplaces

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                That's beautiful. I'll have to go look for the magazine now!

                Have you ever tried adding gluten to a dough like this one? Would it make it easier to handle, do you think, or just toughen it up?
                Elizabeth

                http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/e...html#post41545

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                • #9
                  Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                  I don't think you should add gluten. I have been told many times by pro bakers and the flour mills that it isn't the quantity of gluten in your flour, but the quality that is the most important. That, and how well you develop the gluten in your dough. I think you should pick the right flour for what you are making -- and go with quality flour.
                  James
                  Pizza Ovens
                  Outdoor Fireplaces

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                    I can't believe that it's 90% hydration!

                    I'm gonna try the recipe in my WFO this weekend.
                    Looks like a great appetizer.


                    Dave
                    My thread:
                    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/d...ress-2476.html
                    My costs:
                    http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...Xr0fvgxuh4s7Hw
                    My pics:
                    http://picasaweb.google.com/dawatsonator

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                      I wanted the recipe but couldn't look at it on their site without being a registered member.
                      So I signed up for a free issue which I can extend to one year subscription.

                      Use this code if you want a one year subscription for a bit less than $20.00. (19.97 i think.) PO3A222 Enter it in the promo spot.

                      Then, if you want, you can sign up for a one year online membership. (only $15 if you sign up right after your magazine subscription) (It's normally $35)

                      Then you can access everything, including the recipe.
                      After watching a few videos, I think I will be a permanent subscriber.

                      James, I hope it was OK posting this info here. If not, please delete this post.

                      Thanks

                      Dave
                      My thread:
                      http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/d...ress-2476.html
                      My costs:
                      http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...Xr0fvgxuh4s7Hw
                      My pics:
                      http://picasaweb.google.com/dawatsonator

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                        Dave,

                        Take some pictures and let us know what temperature you are going to start your bake at. I'll do the same.
                        James
                        Pizza Ovens
                        Outdoor Fireplaces

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                          I think Cook's Illustrated is great. I used to buy it here and there on the stand, and signed up for the subscription a few issues ago. I am consistently making at least 3-4 of their recipes each issue, and a number of them are now a part of the family repertoire. The creamy mashed potatoes are very good.

                          A big thumbs up from me. And to think, they could do focaccia dough. :-)

                          James
                          Pizza Ovens
                          Outdoor Fireplaces

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                            I've subscribed to Cooks Illustrated for several years, and absolutely love the publication. But be forewarned, everyone, that they have a VERY aggressive and annoying marketing department. There is NO way to take advantage of any of their cookbook offers, special offers, coupons that come with the magazine, etc., without being signed up for their cookbook-of-the-month style book club. And then you have to do battle to get off that list and get them to stop sending you things to "preview for your convenience." You can't even buy things through their website without being forced into signing up for that crap.

                            Now, I have the highest respect for the publication and even the books they put out. But I hate the aggressive, forceful marketing so much that I no longer take advantage of any of the pre-publication discounts or special offers. I'd much rather pay an extra $15 at Barnes and Noble than do battle with their marketing department again.
                            Nikki

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Cook's Illustrated - Sept/Oct 08

                              Originally posted by james View Post
                              Dave,

                              Take some pictures and let us know what temperature you are going to start your bake at. I'll do the same.
                              James
                              I'll do it James.

                              Should I make the dough on Friday night so I that it can sit in the fridge until Saturday evening?
                              My thread:
                              http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/d...ress-2476.html
                              My costs:
                              http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...Xr0fvgxuh4s7Hw
                              My pics:
                              http://picasaweb.google.com/dawatsonator

                              Comment

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